Sunday, June 20, 2010

Zermatt on Fathers Day

      Woke up to heavy showers in Andermatt and knew right away we would not be riding today. After the experience yesterday it simply was not worth it and we probably needed a day off anyway. Christoph, our innkeeper suggested we take the train to Zermatt which for those of you who do not know is an international skiing mecca. This was a no brainer as Dad and I have both dreamed of visiting there.

      The train did cost close to $100 per person but it was nearly a 4 hour trip oneway so the price was not super outrageous and let me tell you it was worth it. The train ride both to and from was breathtaking. Once we went under the 15k tunnel out of Andermatt we were treated to high clouds, mountain peaks and the occasional patch of blue sky. The train was almost empty except for one older fellow sitting across from us. He kept looking over at Dad and I and I could tell he wanted to communicate. I can't remember what I said to strike up conversation, but I found out very quickly he did not speak a word of English. We did however talk for about an hour and a half, almost constantly. I was able to gather his name was Gerhard and he was from the "flat area of Germany" not too far from Hamburg. He was traveling in Switzerland for a month on the Swiss Pass which is like a Eurorail pass only better. It is very cheap and gives you tons of discounts of other Swiss attractions like Trams and such.


       A few years ago, (he was easily in his mid 70's and more likely in his 80's) he peddle biked many of the major Europeans passes and traveled extensively (on his bike) thru the Mediterranean and had the pictures to prove it. We also talked about the Matterhorn and other big mountains and he suggested a few things for Dad and I to do. It was difficult but very fun trying to communicate and all in the name of friendship and camaraderie.  A highlight of my trip to say the least.

      My friend left us in Brig and we switched trains for the final leg to Zermatt. It's hard to explain how steep and rocky the canyon which the train cut thru was. It is an engineering marvel that they were able to put a train or road for that matter along this valley.

      We arrived in Zermatt at lunch so of course all the shops and restaurants were closed because lunchtime is the perfect time to close a restaurant. Europeans are crazy like that. Zermatt is akin to a Vail with one major walking road which takes you up to the ski-lifts. We walked up to the bottom of the gondola and inquired about the time it would take to ride up as we needed to catch a train back to Andermatt in time for dinner (4 hour train ride remember?) When we were told it would be an hour up (it's a big freaking mountain) Dad was not too thrilled but I told him "It's Fathers Day and missing out on this experience is not worth getting back just for dinner. And I'm paying." Well, it cost $100 for the two of us to take a gondola just halfway up the mountain, but I am sure glad we did it.

      I don't want to harp on this but I need to say it for my own sake...
I have skied all over the United States and never have I seen a mountain like Zermatt. The Gondola went over trails that no one would ever consider putting a lift on in the US. I thought Vail was big (and it is, the largest in the lower 48 at 5000+ skiable acres) but it is dwarfed by Zermatt. We only went up halfway as the clouds made it not worth going farther up, but halfway for Zermatt is probably more vertical than any mountain in the US. My mind was blown. I MUST come ski here and Andermatt some time in my life while I still have the legs to get down.


      Anyways, if you didn't know Zermatt is also home to the famous Matterhorn which we sadly could not see as it was hidden in the clouds. We took some photos and quickly descended back down as it was very cold up there. They ski 365 days a year but not today as the fog was so thick. We did however make it back down and to the train depot in time for the one to get us back to Andermatt by dinner. The ride back was prettier than going to. The sky turned deep blue and the mountain peaks were amazing right until we reached the tunnel back. As soon as we got to the other side, would you believe it, it was raining and almost zero visibility in Andermatt. Oh well. Everyone promises we will have good weather tomorrow so time will tell. I am ready to get back on the bike.


      I would like to take one moment to apologize, especially to my dear wife, for the length of these blogs. It is quite possible she has not even made it this far in today's post. I do apologize. I agree that "brevity is the soul of wit" and that truth be told, no one is likely interested in my ramblings. I start all these posts with the intention of just making a quick point or two, but I am flooded with memories and experiences that I do not want to forget. This blog is very selfish, I admit. It's more for me to look back on in 5, 10 or 15 years and share with my children. If you have made it this far, thank you. I appreciate your patience.

      Think positive for better weather.

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