Monday, June 21, 2010

When motorcycles dream...

They dream of days like today.

Woke up early and threw open my curtains expecting to see bright sun and was more than disappointed to see the fog was thicker than yesterday. I opened my window and found it was very cold, wet and extremely windy. Dad and I were both discouraged but I got online and looked at webcams out side of the valley we are staying in and the clouds looked much higher and some areas had spots of sunshine. I was not going to let anything get in my way of riding today so after going to the Info kiosk and asking some questions about maps and weather we got on the bikes around 11:30am

Ascending the Oberalp pass once again out of Andermatt we were quickly met with thick fog and I knew Dad was again suffering from the lack of visibility. We took it very slow and closing in on the top of the pass it began to snow on us and with each meter farther we went the snow got harder and deeper on the sides of the road. The asphalt thankfully was only wet and not icy but there was easily 6" of fresh snow at the top of the pass which had been plowed at some point during the night.

I have to admit I was loving it. I knew Dad was in hell but I couldn't help relishing in the fact I was on a motorcycle in the Alps in June and it was dumping snow. These are once and a lifetime types of experiences.

The other side of the pass drops quickly in vertical and it was not long before we were out of the snow completely and only a few miles past that when the road was totally dry. Another 10k down the mountain and the sun began to peak out and it quickly warmed. In Disentis we turned right to ascend the Lukmanier Pass. This was a stunning valley with large, green hillside pastures dotted with old brown alpine huts. The road was one of the best we have encountered. We stopped often to take video and snapshots and for most of the ride up the pass we were the only vehicles on the road.

At the top of the Lukmanier sits a picturesque mountain lake with one small restaurant/hotel at the crest of the pass. We stopped to take some pictures and it was very cold so Dad suggested we go in for hot chocolate. The place was empty except for some peddle bikers who were unbelievably in bikes shorts and jerseys but taking into consideration the pass they just came up there is no doubt they were warm from leg power. We had lunch and when the Zurich Harley Riders Club arrived we knew it was time to leave. Nothing against Harley riders, but incredibly loud pipes in these quiet, peaceful mountains is just annoying.

Back on the bikes heading down south towards Biasca, it went from partly cloudy to full blown blue skies and giant peaks. This was the Alpen views I had been waiting for. It seems the trick to Andermatt is just to get the hell out of Andermatt as everywhere else in Switzerland seems to be picture perfect. The descent of the Lukmanier is without a doubt one of the prettiest places I have ever been. Around ever tight corner is a bigger snowcapped mountain, cascading down to a lush green valley and little towns dot the landscape. What I found most interesting is that a sign at the top of the Lukmanier told us that this was the Italian speaking area of Switzerland and this became much more evident as we descended to the valley floor. The archituecture went from the classic Swiss alpine stlye of Andermatt to a style that was decidedly Roman. I must ask my Roman archelogist friend if I am correct, but my impression is that the Romans came this far north some 2000 years ago and settled this area without going up into the high mountains where it would be much colder and the winters much harsher. For comparison, imagine going from the predominantly Crasftman home styles of Western North Carolina to the Adobe architecture of Arizona  in a distance of only 75 miles. It was really amazing. I felt like we were in a totally different country and in some respects I am sure we were.

We also went from temps in the mid 30's to temps in the mid 60's or low 70's in no time. I had been layered in a zipup long john shirt, my orange Patagonia quilted pullover, my bike jacket insulated shell, my armoured bike jacket and a rain coat on top of that (with ski gloves on, a balacava on my face, my bike pants with the insulated liners in, long john bottoms and my rain pants) to having to shed essentially everything but a long sleeve t-shirt and my mesh bike jacket and I was still very hot. When I took them off the inside of my rain pants were soaked with sweat.

At Biasca we turned north to go over the famous St. Gotthardo pass. It once again got cold as we went steeply up in altitude and I had to relayer back up, but this time not so thick. The St. Gotthardo was breathtaking. The current road must be fairly new as I think we could see the old road off to the right. It has huge sweeping turns and panoramic mountain views in every direction. Close to the top we stopped at a tourist rest area and took some pictures and videos. I got a great video of some crotch rockets coming up the pass and one guy blowing past a car just out of a tunnel. They stopped at the rest area and I asked which one was in first. A Dutch fellow named K.C. introduced himself and was very psyched at the video I got of him and we exchanged emails so I could send him the YouTube link when I post it. The roads are great, the food is great & the views are great, but the best part of the trip thus far has been meeting such wonderful and interesting Europeans. I envy friends and relatives who have had the opportunity to live here for a time.  It saddens me when I hear of American military who are stationed over here and never leave the base. They are truly missing out.


At the top of the pass it is only 5 miles down to Andermatt and wouldn't you know it, there was fog the whole way and the town was again socked in. The clouds had certainly lifted more then at any time since we arrived but I still don't have any idea what the place looks like on a clear day. I am certain it is stunning.

Weather looks to improve even more tomorrow and we have a long ride planned so I am off to bed. I have created a quick movie of our adventure today and it shows many of the things I've written in the post. Just click the link below...

Movie of Lukmanier Pass to St. Gotthado Pass

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