6/24/2010 Just when you think it couldn’t get any better…

Today happens!!!

I’m not even sure where to begin exactly. Dad and I just had the most wonderful dinner at the Pension La Fontana in Corvara in Badia, our home for the next few days in the Dolomites of Northern Italy. The food was outstanding but what made it even more pleasurable was the great conversation with our new Belgian friend Dirk who we met at the bar before dinner. He struck up conversation with us about motorcycles and Dad asked him if he would like to join us and eat together. He is here alone for a week riding his bicycle and could not have been a more interesting and nicer fellow. I would say he is a little bit older than me, married with 8 and 12 year old boys. We talked about cycling, motorbikes, banking (his job), acting, Americans and Europe, and the list goes on. Our dinner lasted nearly 2½  hours and could have lasted another two if not for the fact that we were all so tired. He from peddling, Dad and I from another long day on the bikes. I look forward to seeing him tomorrow evening.

I did not sleep so well last night. Dad and I shared a room in our small hotel in Valdidentro and my bed I think was precisely 6’4” long which just happens to be my exact height. The sheets were also tucked so tight that when I tried to pull them loose a bit I ripped one corner of the top sheet and then gave up so I was quite literally confined to one sleep position. Thankfully I was so tired from a long day that I eventually got some shuteye.

We woke to the most beautiful cloudless skies imaginable and the first thing I did was go out on our small balcony for a view of the Cima Piazzi which dominated the entire horizon. That is not a view I would easily tire of.

We were on the bikes at 9am, which was the earliest we had saddled up so far this trip. We knew we had a long exciting day ahead starting with climbing up to the Passo Del Stelvio. We had come down the pass last night and both knew what we were in for and I can tell you that Dad was decidedly nervous. There were tunnels on this road that were little and dark and you would really not want to meet any oncoming traffic. The hairpins were also stacked on top of one another like the Grimsel Pass but the road was much narrower with shorter straights so every time you came out of a turn it felt as if you were going back into another.

We made it up to the top of the Stelvio without incident and this had to have been the best 66^th birthday present my Dad could have asked for. Here we were, on top of one of the most famous roads in the world on a perfect bluebird day and we had arrived early enough that we avoided the circus that I am certain that place becomes by lunch.

After taking our required photos next to the pass sign, Dad and I both went in different directions for unique pictorial perspectives. He went up to a restaurant called Tibet that is perched on a rock outcropping overlooking the southern section of the pass which we had yet to descend. I went the other way, taking a small, very steep hike up to a knoll just above the souvenir shops. I was able to get an almost 360* view and the mountains just went on forever. I could see the road just descend into what seemed like an endlessly deep valley. I got down first and wanted to try and get Dad a few souvenirs for his birthday. It was the very least I could do in appreciation for this once in a lifetime experience he had provided us. It is a blessing that I have the kind of relationship with my father that we are able to have an adventure like this and enjoy each others company and share the same passions. Truly a blessing indeed.

I found one souvenir shop, maybe not the most polished, but one that accepted Swiss Franc’s which is all I had and the woman who ran it, who I later found out was named Cristina, spoke a good bit of English and was extremely friendly. I bought Dad a keychain, a sticker, and a sew-on patch. I also got two postcards, a sticker for myself, and two Swiss cowbell Christmas tree ornaments for Amanda and my mother. All for the paltry sum of 78fr or nearly $80!!! There must be a mountain top tax because you can’t get these things anywhere else. Anyways, it was all worth it, and although small, I think Dad was very appreciative of his gifts, which I handed him in the bag I got them in. We spoke with Cristina for a bit longer and she told me very briefly of the history of this area. How it was once the border of Austria, Switzerland and Italy before WWI but afterwards Austria lost it and it became part of Italy. It is still very much a German speaking area. Neat.

After a delicious street vendor brat on some fresh focaccia bread, we suited up and prepared for our descent down the side of the Stelvio for which it is most famous. I had up to this point thought that what was so impressive about it was that you could see so much of the road and switchbacks without anything blocking the view. After all, it did not look very different that other passes we had done. Once actually on the road however I realized that what makes it so famous is not only the severity of the hairpin turns but also the steepness with which the road descends between then. Drop and turn, drop and turn. Add to that the fact that 100’s of motorcycles and a few cars we coming up the other direction and everyone is taking the turns wide to make the hairpins without having to downshift. This means that as I turn wide left around a hairpin (guardrail and 1000 foot drop on my right) there are often bikes and cars IN MY LANE as I go down, and when I swing right I need to go wide to make the turn and hope and pray no one is coming up. The experience lies in the actual driving itself, not in the views necessarily, although those were not too shabby, you just have no time to look at them.

Many minutes and what seemed like 1000’s of turns later we found ourselves at the very bottom in a long wide valley where apples were the abundant crop and the valley floor as well as the steep hillsides were filled with such farms. There was also immense traffic. It was a very busy two-lane road with shipping trucks, farm equipment and crazy Italian drivers. Everything they say about Italian drivers is true. To Americans they seem reckless, and maybe they are, but I think the deal is they trust that if you are ahead of them and they want to pass, that you will not alter your course. Essentially they are counting on you being consistent. This was never more true than watching them ride scooters in the fairly large city of Muren where they would scream thru the roundabouts without a care. One guy on a scooter passed Dad in a roundabout. It was amazing.

We stopped for lunch as a small rest area right at the border of the towns of Tirol and Kuens. We had a nice chat with a Brit named Mark who was on his fourth week of traveling alone by motorcycle. He must have some money saved up somewhere because the prices alone of gas in Europe would easily drain my bank account. He told us the pass we were headed up would be gorgeous and he was not lying. After a bit more traffic we dropped everyone behind us and began to ascend the Jaufenpass. This I think I can say without question is my favorite pass to date. While still in the tree line, everything was just so green. Occasionally you would break out of the forest to go thru small towns that seemed to cling to the sides of the mountain. The pass ascended steeply and the bikes on this road seemed more serous than others we had encountered. We were often lit up by crotchrockets around the scariest of turns. Dad and I were both tired and so just took it easy and waved lots of people by, although I don’t think many of them needed much waving. I do like it when you allow a biker to pass you, they kick out their right foot like a wave. As we got out of the tree line the views were never ending and the completely cloudless blue skies made it all the more dramatic. I am running out of adjectives to describe these mountains. Trust me, they’re pretty.

At the top of the pass Dad and I took a small hike and got some breathtaking photos and video footage and got back on the bikes for the final leg to Corvara. We hit some major traffic and construction on some fairly major roads we were forced to take but finally turned off for the last 30k. The sign said we were heading towards a pass and honestly I thought my head would explode if I had to make another hairpin, but fortunately Corvara is a bit before the pass gets steep. We have our first taste of the Dolomites, which, I know you won’t believe me, are more spectacular than anything I have seen thus far, but I am going to save that adjective laden post for tomorrow as I am the most wiped I have been since we started.

I am sitting here in my hotel room, looking at the moon rise over the ski lifts and I bid you a warm goodnight.

6/23/10 Conquering the Umbrail

Andermatt to Semogo in Val Didentro, Italy

Woke up to our last morning in Andermatt and was certain I would once again open the curtains to see thick clouds, and was more than surprised to find brilliant blue skies and was able to see Andermatt in all it’s brilliance. And brilliant it was. The valley floor was electric green and the mountaintops were imposing and snow covered. Just being able to see the top of the small mountain out our hotel room window was a treat and I found myself often stopping my packing to look out at the views. What would it have been like if we had had weather like this the past 3 or 4 days? Spectacular no doubt but at least we knew today was going to be a beauty.

After breakfast we went for a short walk up the hill behind the town to take some pictures of the cows and the town below but it was not long before I was itching to get on the bike. We left about 10:45 and went over the Oberalp one last time. As I had been over this pass 3 times now I felt very comfortable in the sweeping turns, and near the top we stopped to take some more pictures and video. With the clear weather I was really able to gauge the size of the ski area of Andermatt/Sedrun and it is truly massive. I would love to come back here during the winter.

Down the Oberalp and east towards Chur. The Alps in all their glory are amazing. They are just everywhere with huge snowcapped peaks and lush valleys. I often thought of my father-in-law as the woodwork and craftsmanship of the homes and buildings is truly artful. We rode pretty much non-stop for close to three hours until we reached St. Moritz. In that time we rode up many passes (Lenzerheide, Pass Del Fuorn) and thru beautiful valleys. We saw deep gorges, and crystal clear snowmelt streams. They’re were areas that reminded me of Montana and Idaho. The Julier Pass over to St. Moritz was similar to the moonscape of the Grimsel but with huge peaks that shot straight up around us.

Dad and I kept radioing each other to stop and take pictures but would then decide to continue on. I think it is true that after a while all pictures of the mountains look kind of the same. Certainly to those who did not share in the experience.

We were both very excited to visit St. Moritz, the sight of two Olympics and were disappointed to find it to be just another glitzy ski town. There were tourists everywhere, lots of impatient drivers and nothing really worth noting. The hotels are neat in architecture and the lake we ate lunch around was quite picturesque but it is not a place I am yearning to return to. We had lunch (Dad got some bread, meat and cheese from the Co-Op grocery store) on a grassy knoll over looking the lake and got on our bikes for the final, exhilarating leg of our trip… The Umbrail!!!

We crossed the Pas Dal Fuorn (more spectacular views) and got gas in the very small town of Tschierv. In Valchava, a beautiful town with extremely tight roads thru the center, we made a sharp right and immediately began our ascent up the Umbrail. Dad had not given me any indication that this pass would be any different than the ones we had already crossed. I wouldn’t say I was “used” to riding in the Alps yet but my confidence was much higher and I felt I at least knew what to expect. Not so on the Umbrail. This pass was perhaps one of the craziest things I have ever experienced.

You start to climb up a steep wooded mountain and only have a view of the road in front of you. You can see up a .10 of a mile or so as there is a decreasing radius hairpin ahead. It honestly seemed as if the hairpins were so tight and steep they would begin to turn back on themselves. The road was the most narrow we had been on yet. It was maybe 12 feet wide. It’s no wonder they don’t drive big SUV’s over here, as they would not both fit on many roads. Add to all this bicyclers’, motorbikes (fast ones), some cars, and construction equipment like pavers and such and you can get some idea of the thrill of this road.

As the Umbrail breaks out of the tree line, the road turns to dirt for a short portion. I am not sure if this is the way it always is or part of a repaving project as only 2K up the road returns to solid asphalt. It flattens out in a high valley just enough to let you catch your breath before it sends you right back up hairpins. We were so high now the snow would get deeper with each turn and you began to see snow plowed walls on the side of the road.

We stopped to take some video in the bend of a turn and Dad pointed out the top of the Passo De Stelvio on top of a mountain. The Stelvio is perhaps the most famous motorcycle road in the world and we decided to go take a look at the top before we descend it tomorrow. The end of the Umbrail is also the Italian border where you come to a fork. You can go down to Bormio in one direction or up to Stelvio another. We went up and now were riding in a total snowfield. We stopped briefly at Stelvio as it had been getting late and we needed to find our hotel so we descended into Bormio, as we would be returning this same way in the morning. The descent was another scary road with stacked hairpins which were actually numbered for cyclists’ and tunnels which were so narrow and dark it was like driving at night.

Our Hotel, the Meuble Rosealpina, in the village of San Carlo, Valdidnetro, sits on the side of a hill overlooking some of the most spectacular mountains to date. I know I sound like a broken record but I mean it this time. The peaks of northern Italy are stunning and imposing. Dad found a hotel so small and in such a remote town that no one here, and I mean no one, speaks any English whatsoever. I tried to ask about internet and I am not sure the innkeeper knew what that was. Unfortunately the only Italian I know I’ve learned from The Sopranos and Frank Sinatra songs. Thank God for my iPhone applications.

We had dinner at an adjacent hotel and the waitress did speak very good English although she did not think so.  I had a Curry Chicken which doesn’t seem very Italian but as I am in Italy, at and Italian restaurant, it’s counts as Italian food. It was the Raspberry Panachetti I had for desert that was the literal icing on the cake. The wine wasn’t so bad either.

Back to the Stelivo tomorrow and off to Covara in Badia in the Dolomites. Looks to be another amazing day.

Furka -> Grimsel -> Susten Passes

Today was another one for the books. It’s no surprise that we woke up to low clouds in Andermatt but this morning it was the area towards the Furka that showed promise and not the lower Oberalp which we had already been over a couple of times. Dad and I both knew that all we had to do was get out of Andermatt so we suited up early and were on the road by 10am.

The plan was to try and bag a number of very famous passes in one day and we began with the Furkapass which gave us so much trouble our first ride on Saturday. Today was a completely different experience. It looked like we would encounter fog again towards the top, but we honestly did not know really where we were looking. When we got to the place where the fog got so thick on Saturday we realized we could see the top of the pass and there was blue sky at the summit. What was most amazing is the realization that Dad and I had made it a heck of a long way up the pass in the crazy dense fog and snow and did not even realize it. We were sort of impressed with what we didn’t know we had accomplished.

This time we stopped often and took pictures and video and upon cresting the top of the pass we were treated to sweeping panoramic views and deep blue skies. From the top of the top you can see all the way down to the bottom of the Furka and where the Grimsel Pass immediately begins and climbs straight up into what looked like a thick cloud bank. Dad and I turned on the helmet cams and began the trek downward towards the valley floor. It was cold and windy but exhilarating and the lack of guardrails and sheer plummets added to the excitement.

Once at the bottom you honestly do not have a moment to blink before you are climbing the Grimsel. The pass is really just a series of steep switchbacks connected by tight hairpin turns. The ride up was one of the quickest pass ascents we have yet made, and that cloud bank was not so bad although it was obvious they had had some snow overnight as there were many workers out shoveling in front of the souvenir shops and restaurants. The descent of the Grimsel towards Interlaken was something entirely different. It was almost like a moonscape with zero vegetation and nothing but rocks and snow. It was also extremely cold, compounded by the fact that I did not layer nearly as much as the day before.

The ride down just kept going and going, very much in contrast to the fast trip up. From moonscape we descended into a lush pine forest and finally to the fertile pasture valley floor. We passed the turn to the Sustan pass that we would take later in the afternoon and headed towards Interlaken. We went left at Interlaken towards the small tourist town of Lauterbrunnen, which is known as the Yosemite of the Alps and for good reason. The valley we rode thru sits in the shadows of 2000-foot sheer cliffs on either side that stretch for miles. This place was awe-inspiring. They’re the sort of walls you see people BASE jump off of on crazy Nat Geo shows. The kind of walls where narrow waterfalls spill off the edge of the cliff and fall so far they just become mist. It was amazing.

We went to the end of the valley where the road ends and had a big lunch at the Hotel Stechelberg. Dad wanted to go to the ski area of Wengen after lunch but we couldn’t find the turn and instead went to the ski area of Grindelwald which sits in the shadow of the Eiger. I only know the Eiger from the terribly great Clint Eastwood movie The Eiger Sanction which is only worth renting for a good laugh. Once again we were awed by the beauty and massive size of these mountains. Who ever thought to put a ski hill up these peaks must have been out of their mind. We were able to see the Gleckstein Glacier which was very cool.

After leaving this beautiful valley we had to head back the way we came but went thru Interlaken and rode along the turquoise colored lake Brienzersee. I had never seen water this color and it was often distracted as I road along it as it was somewhat mesmerizing. At the crossroads in Interkirchen we began our ascent up the Sustenpass which may be my favorite so far. Unfortunately we did not have the sun with us any longer but this pass was incredible. It climbed thru a thick forest for a long way up and then suddenly you rise above the tree line and are once again in a moonscape. This time however the fall off the edge was the steepest and farthest so far and there are no guardrails to even give you the illusion of safety. I am not really afraid of heights (unlike Dad who when there were no oncoming vehicles was riding in the lane closest to the wall) but I got the willies on a number of occasions. I was also tired and cold from a long day and it all sort of came to a head on this pass. I felt a great sense of accomplishment when we reached the summit only to have a super long ride back down.

Near the bottom we passed a couple riding a tandem peddle bike with a small trailer attached. I knew that by coming down they must have at some point gone up and an hour and a half later, sitting at dinner at our hotel in Andermatt they came peddling by. This meant they also had to have ridden back up the Goshenen pass back into town. They then pulled into the campground next to our hotel and we watched them get off the bike and set up a tent. That right there, ladies and gents, is the truest definition of love I have ever seen. To have to count on your partner to be in sync with your peddling, going up and down what must seem like endless passes only to have to then get in a tent with no shower just to get up the next morning to do it all over again is beyond me. I love my wife more than anything I have loved in my life, but I think we might kill each other before lunch if we had to make such a journey.

Tomorrow we leave Andermatt for somewhere in Italy before we go to Corvara for a few days in the Dolomites. It feels like I have been here for a while and at the same time feels like we are just getting started. The adventure becomes more adventurous each day. I can’t wait to see what tomorrow will bring.

Auf Wiedersehen Switzerland!!! 

When motorcycles dream...

They dream of days like today.

Woke up early and threw open my curtains expecting to see bright sun and was more than disappointed to see the fog was thicker than yesterday. I opened my window and found it was very cold, wet and extremely windy. Dad and I were both discouraged but I got online and looked at webcams out side of the valley we are staying in and the clouds looked much higher and some areas had spots of sunshine. I was not going to let anything get in my way of riding today so after going to the Info kiosk and asking some questions about maps and weather we got on the bikes around 11:30am

Ascending the Oberalp pass once again out of Andermatt we were quickly met with thick fog and I knew Dad was again suffering from the lack of visibility. We took it very slow and closing in on the top of the pass it began to snow on us and with each meter farther we went the snow got harder and deeper on the sides of the road. The asphalt thankfully was only wet and not icy but there was easily 6" of fresh snow at the top of the pass which had been plowed at some point during the night.

I have to admit I was loving it. I knew Dad was in hell but I couldn't help relishing in the fact I was on a motorcycle in the Alps in June and it was dumping snow. These are once and a lifetime types of experiences.

The other side of the pass drops quickly in vertical and it was not long before we were out of the snow completely and only a few miles past that when the road was totally dry. Another 10k down the mountain and the sun began to peak out and it quickly warmed. In Disentis we turned right to ascend the Lukmanier Pass. This was a stunning valley with large, green hillside pastures dotted with old brown alpine huts. The road was one of the best we have encountered. We stopped often to take video and snapshots and for most of the ride up the pass we were the only vehicles on the road.

At the top of the Lukmanier sits a picturesque mountain lake with one small restaurant/hotel at the crest of the pass. We stopped to take some pictures and it was very cold so Dad suggested we go in for hot chocolate. The place was empty except for some peddle bikers who were unbelievably in bikes shorts and jerseys but taking into consideration the pass they just came up there is no doubt they were warm from leg power. We had lunch and when the Zurich Harley Riders Club arrived we knew it was time to leave. Nothing against Harley riders, but incredibly loud pipes in these quiet, peaceful mountains is just annoying.

Back on the bikes heading down south towards Biasca, it went from partly cloudy to full blown blue skies and giant peaks. This was the Alpen views I had been waiting for. It seems the trick to Andermatt is just to get the hell out of Andermatt as everywhere else in Switzerland seems to be picture perfect. The descent of the Lukmanier is without a doubt one of the prettiest places I have ever been. Around ever tight corner is a bigger snowcapped mountain, cascading down to a lush green valley and little towns dot the landscape. What I found most interesting is that a sign at the top of the Lukmanier told us that this was the Italian speaking area of Switzerland and this became much more evident as we descended to the valley floor. The archituecture went from the classic Swiss alpine stlye of Andermatt to a style that was decidedly Roman. I must ask my Roman archelogist friend if I am correct, but my impression is that the Romans came this far north some 2000 years ago and settled this area without going up into the high mountains where it would be much colder and the winters much harsher. For comparison, imagine going from the predominantly Crasftman home styles of Western North Carolina to the Adobe architecture of Arizona  in a distance of only 75 miles. It was really amazing. I felt like we were in a totally different country and in some respects I am sure we were.

We also went from temps in the mid 30's to temps in the mid 60's or low 70's in no time. I had been layered in a zipup long john shirt, my orange Patagonia quilted pullover, my bike jacket insulated shell, my armoured bike jacket and a rain coat on top of that (with ski gloves on, a balacava on my face, my bike pants with the insulated liners in, long john bottoms and my rain pants) to having to shed essentially everything but a long sleeve t-shirt and my mesh bike jacket and I was still very hot. When I took them off the inside of my rain pants were soaked with sweat.

At Biasca we turned north to go over the famous St. Gotthardo pass. It once again got cold as we went steeply up in altitude and I had to relayer back up, but this time not so thick. The St. Gotthardo was breathtaking. The current road must be fairly new as I think we could see the old road off to the right. It has huge sweeping turns and panoramic mountain views in every direction. Close to the top we stopped at a tourist rest area and took some pictures and videos. I got a great video of some crotch rockets coming up the pass and one guy blowing past a car just out of a tunnel. They stopped at the rest area and I asked which one was in first. A Dutch fellow named K.C. introduced himself and was very psyched at the video I got of him and we exchanged emails so I could send him the YouTube link when I post it. The roads are great, the food is great & the views are great, but the best part of the trip thus far has been meeting such wonderful and interesting Europeans. I envy friends and relatives who have had the opportunity to live here for a time.  It saddens me when I hear of American military who are stationed over here and never leave the base. They are truly missing out.


At the top of the pass it is only 5 miles down to Andermatt and wouldn't you know it, there was fog the whole way and the town was again socked in. The clouds had certainly lifted more then at any time since we arrived but I still don't have any idea what the place looks like on a clear day. I am certain it is stunning.

Weather looks to improve even more tomorrow and we have a long ride planned so I am off to bed. I have created a quick movie of our adventure today and it shows many of the things I've written in the post. Just click the link below...

Movie of Lukmanier Pass to St. Gotthado Pass

Zermatt on Fathers Day

      Woke up to heavy showers in Andermatt and knew right away we would not be riding today. After the experience yesterday it simply was not worth it and we probably needed a day off anyway. Christoph, our innkeeper suggested we take the train to Zermatt which for those of you who do not know is an international skiing mecca. This was a no brainer as Dad and I have both dreamed of visiting there.

      The train did cost close to $100 per person but it was nearly a 4 hour trip oneway so the price was not super outrageous and let me tell you it was worth it. The train ride both to and from was breathtaking. Once we went under the 15k tunnel out of Andermatt we were treated to high clouds, mountain peaks and the occasional patch of blue sky. The train was almost empty except for one older fellow sitting across from us. He kept looking over at Dad and I and I could tell he wanted to communicate. I can't remember what I said to strike up conversation, but I found out very quickly he did not speak a word of English. We did however talk for about an hour and a half, almost constantly. I was able to gather his name was Gerhard and he was from the "flat area of Germany" not too far from Hamburg. He was traveling in Switzerland for a month on the Swiss Pass which is like a Eurorail pass only better. It is very cheap and gives you tons of discounts of other Swiss attractions like Trams and such.


       A few years ago, (he was easily in his mid 70's and more likely in his 80's) he peddle biked many of the major Europeans passes and traveled extensively (on his bike) thru the Mediterranean and had the pictures to prove it. We also talked about the Matterhorn and other big mountains and he suggested a few things for Dad and I to do. It was difficult but very fun trying to communicate and all in the name of friendship and camaraderie.  A highlight of my trip to say the least.

      My friend left us in Brig and we switched trains for the final leg to Zermatt. It's hard to explain how steep and rocky the canyon which the train cut thru was. It is an engineering marvel that they were able to put a train or road for that matter along this valley.

      We arrived in Zermatt at lunch so of course all the shops and restaurants were closed because lunchtime is the perfect time to close a restaurant. Europeans are crazy like that. Zermatt is akin to a Vail with one major walking road which takes you up to the ski-lifts. We walked up to the bottom of the gondola and inquired about the time it would take to ride up as we needed to catch a train back to Andermatt in time for dinner (4 hour train ride remember?) When we were told it would be an hour up (it's a big freaking mountain) Dad was not too thrilled but I told him "It's Fathers Day and missing out on this experience is not worth getting back just for dinner. And I'm paying." Well, it cost $100 for the two of us to take a gondola just halfway up the mountain, but I am sure glad we did it.

      I don't want to harp on this but I need to say it for my own sake...
I have skied all over the United States and never have I seen a mountain like Zermatt. The Gondola went over trails that no one would ever consider putting a lift on in the US. I thought Vail was big (and it is, the largest in the lower 48 at 5000+ skiable acres) but it is dwarfed by Zermatt. We only went up halfway as the clouds made it not worth going farther up, but halfway for Zermatt is probably more vertical than any mountain in the US. My mind was blown. I MUST come ski here and Andermatt some time in my life while I still have the legs to get down.

      Anyways, if you didn't know Zermatt is also home to the famous Matterhorn which we sadly could not see as it was hidden in the clouds. We took some photos and quickly descended back down as it was very cold up there. They ski 365 days a year but not today as the fog was so thick. We did however make it back down and to the train depot in time for the one to get us back to Andermatt by dinner. The ride back was prettier than going to. The sky turned deep blue and the mountain peaks were amazing right until we reached the tunnel back. As soon as we got to the other side, would you believe it, it was raining and almost zero visibility in Andermatt. Oh well. Everyone promises we will have good weather tomorrow so time will tell. I am ready to get back on the bike.


      I would like to take one moment to apologize, especially to my dear wife, for the length of these blogs. It is quite possible she has not even made it this far in today's post. I do apologize. I agree that "brevity is the soul of wit" and that truth be told, no one is likely interested in my ramblings. I start all these posts with the intention of just making a quick point or two, but I am flooded with memories and experiences that I do not want to forget. This blog is very selfish, I admit. It's more for me to look back on in 5, 10 or 15 years and share with my children. If you have made it this far, thank you. I appreciate your patience.

      Think positive for better weather.