SAVAGE VACATIONS

Moto Rides of the Alps and Dolomites

2010-07-25T11:02:00.000-07:00

7/1 Addendum

2010-07-01T00:12:00.000-07:00

Last evening, after packing, showering and generally relaxing, we hopped back on the bikes one last time for a ride up the hill in Heidelberg to a large bier garden which sat right on the edge of a beautiful cow pasture. According to Stefan the bier garden was a few hundred years old and had been in the same family throughout it's entire history.

I had not yet had what I would consider to be really touristy traditional German food and asked Stefan what he'd recommend. He told me the house speciality was beef which came from the cattle we were watching graze in the pasture next to the garden. I ordered pan fried steak in a horseradish sauce with potatoes and a salad. It was delicious. I also broke a personal cardinal rule and had one beer with dinner which I normally never, ever do when having to mount a motorcycle. I figured I'd make one exception in this case as I was at my last bier garden and hopefully the full plate of German food would not leave my belly empty with only alcohol.

It was a wonderful dinner under the trees with a gorgeous sunset and just before dark we headed back down the hill to the B&B. The bikes now safely returned to their owners hands, Stefan built a bonfire and we had beers and good talk about everything from the German's feelings about WWII to communication with foreigners. All and all it was the best end to the trip I could ask for and now I am mentally preparing for the long flight home.

Thank you Europe for all your kindness, smooth roads and good food. Thank you Stefan for such reliable bikes and being a wonderful first impression.

Most of all, Thank You Dad, for taking me on this journey of a lifetime!!!

Auf Wiedersehen

6/30/10 Knopf B&B in Kircheim, Germany

2010-06-30T14:40:00.000-07:00

Well we are back at Stefan’s B&B, a little tired but safe and sound. Even though today was just a travel day it was incredibly pleasant in lots of areas as Dad planed a route that took us primarily on country roads and through small German dorfs (towns).

I had a bit of a fitful sleep last night. Not because Dad and I were sharing a bed but rather because, like our beds in Valdidentro, the length of the bed was exactly, if not a ½ and inch shorter than my legs. With Dad so close I really couldn’t spread out to get more comfortable. Once asleep, we were both awoken in the middle of the night by the most intense thunderstorm which sounded as if the lighting bolts were happening in the backyard.

The innkeeper provided us with a light breakfast and we left Pffanhausen about 9:30am. It was crisp outside after the rain cooled things but dry and clear. I was reminded of riding in the early morning thru the farm hills of southern Virginia on past trips with Dad. The little dorfs were perfect and clean and we had no traffic with the exception of farm equipment for most of the day. It warmed quickly and we were forced to take a few Umleitungs (detours) which threw the GPS off terribly and we often pulled over to look at a map. This was ok as it was fun to stop on the side of the road or in the center of a small town and take a few final pictures. This was an area of Germany I would not have normally seen and I was glad this picturesque ride would cap a perfect trip.

We had lunch in Gschwend at a very nice Gasthaus where of course none of the staff spoke any English. Fortunately there was a woman at a table adjacent to us who helped us navigate the menu and another gentleman who helped Dad find our route on the map. It was very hot and humid and the clouds looked a bit menacing so we suited up fast and rode out of town right after we finished our lunch.

More country roads until we hit the final umleitung near Heilbronn and decided to take the autobahn the bulk of the way back to Stefan’s. Not the ideal way to end the trip, but we split some lanes in heavy traffic and cut lots of time off our journey. The GPS got us a bit sidetracked when we got off the Autobahn but it took us through a town where Dad noticed a car at a gas station that had these German flags that we have seen people put on the car side mirrors to support the World Cup. We have looked all over Germany for these stupid things and I went in to the station and they had them and we bought four sets for our bikes at home.

Finally, after a few missed turns we made it safely back to Stefan’s and Dad and I had a long hug and hearty self congratulations. I have packed, and spoken to my Mother and texted Amanda and we are soon going to go to a beirgarten nearby with Stefan and some other guests for dinner.

It has been an amazing adventure and is a bit too soon to put it all into perspective. Andermatt seems like ages ago and even Corvara seems a distant memory. It will take some time for me to process it all.

That being said, here are a few choice memories:

Favorite Meal: Dinner at the Eibsee Hotel

Prettiest Lunch: Lake on Piz Boe

Tastiest Beer: Storchenbrau at Beirgartern in Pffenhaussen

Favorite Hotel Room: La Fontana in Corvara

Best View: Passo de Gaiu

Most Difficult Road: Umbrail Pass

Favorite Ride: Anywhere in the Dolomites

Scariest Moment: Backing down a hairpin on the Furkapass in the fog

Most joyous moment: Hiking with Dad on the Piz Boe

Nicest acquaintance made: Dirk at La Fontana

Quaintest town: Andermatt

Place I most want to return to: Corvara in Badia

6/29 Pfaffenhausen

2010-06-30T14:31:00.000-07:00

Today was the last true vacation day of the trip with a few final sights to see as well as trying to make some mileage back to Heidelberg. We awoke to another beautiful day and had maybe the best breakfast of the trip at the Eibsee Hotel. This was some kind of spread with a plethora of different kinds of breads, wonderful teas and French toast to boot. Dad and I ate and he told me stories of traveling with Mom in Germany some 40 years ago.

After breakfast we walked up to the Zugspitze tram station and I fully expected to be taking the trip alone, but the weather was totally clear and it was quite warm. The tram was not to open till 9 but they were going to let us on at 8:30 with the supplies going up to the restaurant. It was a great opportunity and Dad relented and took the ride. Once again we were treated to one of the most memorable experiences of the trip and the ride up was exhilarating and the mountain views we had at the top went on forever.

Dad did really, really well. He never complained once and only sat down on the floor of the tram on the way up. Once up top he never got right to the edge of the railing but got very close for some fantastic candid pictures. It was really quite amazing being up there. No doubt it was the highest up we had been on the trip and I think the Zugspitze is the highest mountain in Germany so you are well above all the other surrounding peaks. There are three trams that come to the top which in total covers a space not bigger than a football field. There are restaurants and viewing platforms and inside are souvenir shops and bathrooms and it is all very modern and safe. How they ever built the structure and poured all the concrete is beyond me. I will never, ever, forget my ride up the Zugspitze.

We left the Eibsee and headed towards Neuschwanstein Castel near Fussen in Bavaria. We had to travel for about 30k thru Austria and I must admit I found this area of the country much more pleasant. It reminded me quite a bit of Montana with deep river cut valleys flanked by forested mountains rising steeply from the water and every so often a giant rocky peak would show itself around a corner. Once back in Germany it was not long before we turned on the access road to the castle and quickly found ourselves in the center of a tourist nightmare.

Neuschwanstein is the castle that the Disney princess castle is modeled after. It was built by Ludwig II in the 1860’s roughly and he died “mysteriously” in a lake near Munich before it was completed. Considering these were the only crowds we had seen in three weeks and this was a decidedly touristy thing to do I made a conscious effort to take it all in stride and enjoy the experience.

We took the bus up to the drop off point above the castle and first walked to the bridge that Dad remembered being so scared on many years ago. He told me the last time here was here it was just he and Mom and their two friends and he could barely walk across. Now the bridge was crammed full of tourists from all over the world taking photos and generally being a mass of bodies. Dad made it over the bridge no problem, partly due, I am sure to the fact that there we so many people on it he likely never got a perspective of the actual height. We climbed up a steep ridge and took some photos. I went up above Dad and really scared myself as the ridge got narrower and the drop farther down. I was careful not to ever put myself in danger and was always 5-10 feet back from the edge, but still, it got my heart pumping. I made a quick video and was too nervous to take out my photo camera and made my way back down very slowly and carefully.

We took a break for a soda and pretzel as we had an hour to wait for our tour. My feet ware also killing me because I was in my black leather motorcycle boots and it was very hot and sweaty. I was certain I was getting blisters on my toes as there is a lot of hilly walking to and from the castle. Our tour was short but very interesting. As the castle is only a few years older than the Biltmore Estate, most all the open rooms were in wonderful shape and the craftsmanship of the woodcarvings and paintings was incredible. King Ludwig had one of the first telephones in Europe which I found fascinating and unlike other Kings, he was very specific not to have any imagery of himself around the castle. There was only one family crest in the whole place that would tell you who the owner was.

Because my feet could not handle the walk down the hill we took the bus and got back on the bikes heading for and undetermined destination. We figured we’d get somewhere closer to Heidelberg and assumed we’d find a hotel along the way.
We ended up in the small town of Pfaffenhausen in a very small Gasthaus where Dad and I essentially are sharing a bed. We went to dinner at a Bier garden down the street and had pizza and some dunkles (dark beer) that were outstanding. I asked the waiter (originally from Kosovo) if the beer was local and he pointed to what I thought was a garden light with some advertising for Storchen Brau. After dinner we took a walk around town and Dad said he thought he saw a local brewery and I realized the waiter was not pointing to the light but rather thru the Bier Garden bushes to the brewery. We walked up to the location and ended up meeting the Bier Master who was watering the plants. We had a great conversation with him, telling him about our trip and how much we enjoyed his beer and he seemed quite grateful. This stop in Pfaffenhausen was one of the more locally colored experiences on our trip. We were obviously the only foreigners in the town and as we walked up and down the blocks the people we passed would greet us kindly with a wave or nod or German accented “Hallo”. The homes were in a simple architectural style and there was no sense that anything was done with tourists in mind. The innkeeper did not speak a word of English although she would talk to me at length as if I understood every word. I feel very comfortable in Pfaffenhausen.

Back now in our tiny room which is very hot and going to try and get some sleep before the final push to Heidelberg tomorrow.

6/28/2010 Living the High Life in Eibsee

2010-06-28T13:40:00.000-07:00

I knew that McKenzie and I would get into a little adult trouble yesterday and indeed we did. He arrived about 4 in the afternoon with Carlyn and a student friend of theirs named Brian. Dad and I met them at the front door of the La Fontana and immediately sat down and had drinks. It was just another common, beautiful cloudless Corvara day. It was wonderful seeing Mac but I must say I spent the bulk of the evening getting to know Carlyn and it was my impression we hit it off well. I am sure Mac had warned her I have a flair for the dramatic so there were probably no surprises.

After a wonderful, conversation full dinner we asked our server where to go for drinks in town and were told about a bar called the Underground. It wasn’t anything special. Just a ski town bar, and we honestly did not do what I’d call heavy drinking. After all I had a long day on the bike ahead. On the way home however, as we approached the hotel, we all realized none of us had our room keys. The La Fontana really closes down after dinner. No front desk or personnel on staff throughout the night. It was stupid of us to leave our keys, but we had become accustomed to it being the European way and we just didn’t think about it when we left. Confusion set in quickly as we tried to open doors around the building. I noticed my room windows were wide open (no screens) and with a boost from Mac I was certain I could climb up the roof which is just what I did, scraping and bloodying my hands and forearms along the way. Once in my room I went to the door and quickly remembered that you need your key to get out as well as in. So now I was in my room and the other three were downstairs. I missed the next 45 minutes as Mac told me to stay there was no sense in me coming back down. When Mac finally came and opened my door he took me downstairs and reenacted what had happened…

Carlyn had found a door to the basement open and was able to get into the hallway to her room but still none of them could get to the wall where the keys hung. Mac called the hotel about 10 times and no one answered. I guess you are on your own in any kind of emergency. They called the Cabinari (police) who said they’d come and stand around but could not get them in the hotel. Mac went to talk to the bartender across the street who, again, could not really help but gave them a big bottle of wine as a consolation so they were all a drunker than I when I was released from my room. What finally happened was Mac found a key in the kitchen which unlocked the doors, including the door to the hotel bar, so when I came downstairs Carlyn was pouring herself a shot which she felt the hotel owed her for not having any staff around to help. Granted we all shouldn’t have left our keys, but that doesn’t mean we should have to sleep in the street. We all got a good laugh out of it and I hit the hay as I had to get up early.

Dad and I had our last breakfast in Corvara this morning, packed and were ready to go at 9am. Mac, Carlyn and Brian came to say their farewells. We took a number of pictures and were back in the saddle heading up over the Passo Del Gardena one last time. Today’s ride was really the most boring of the entire trip. It was just a pure travel day as our final destination was about 250 miles away in Eibsee, Germany near Garmish. We rode the autostrada for a while and tried to ride the Timeljoch Pass but it was closed for a bicycle race (on a Monday). That may have been best as I was not hung-over by any means but was a bit foggy from being up late and having consumed more beers in one sitting than I had so far on this trip. We rode over the Brenner Pass, which isn’t much of a pass at all, but Dad told me that Mom had crossed this pass many times as a young girl. The Brenner took us into Austria, which I was really looking forward to visiting but was sort of disappointed. The areas we rode in were kind of dirty and very industrial. We did ride thru the outskirts of Innsbruck, which seemed like a nice city but it was difficult to get a feel for it.

Roads and slow traffic all day today with not much to mention. Austria did put us back in the Alps which are incredibly beautiful and I’ve realized it's unfair to make comparisons to the Dolomites as each range has it’s own unique beauties. The end of our day brought us through Garmish which is an American base town and onto Eibsee and the Zugspitze. The reasons Dad wanted me to come to Eibsee were twofold. First it is a place my mother vacationed at as a girl living in Germany and it meant a lot to me to be in a place that she has such fond memories of. Second, it is the home of the famous Zugspitze tram which rises from the lake at Eibsee straight up to the top of the mountain. I plan to ride it in the morning but try and imagine two giant tram towers (like huge electrical towers) down near the base and then nothing but tramline literally 1500ft straight up to the top of this extremely rocky, totally exposed peak. My father is very afraid of heights and I don’t think he will be joining me but he feels it is an important experience for me to have and I honestly can’t wait.

We are staying at the Eibsee Hotel which is a four star hotel that after WWII was exclusively used for American military and State Department personnel which is why my mom used to come here with her folks. The grand old hotel sits on the edge of the most beautiful crystal clear mountain lake with views right up the Zugspitze. I went for a very brief, very cold swim off the dock which was incredibly refreshing but gave me a bit if a headache it was so cold. Dad and I enjoyed a fantastic dinner on the deck of the hotel surrounded by German and American hoitoi and felt very high society. We concluded dinner with a short walk around park of the lake to get views of the Zugspitze in the sunset and as the darkness begins to set in over the lake and mountain I am sitting on the dock writing this. I can hear the guests finishing their dinner and all around me are the splashes of fish coming up to the surface for a dinner of their own.

Even though the ride was not one to remember, this wonderful evening and moment of absolute tranquility is one you cannot really experience sitting on a motorcycle. Another wonderful day.

6/27/10 Hiking around the Piz Boe

2010-06-27T07:00:00.000-07:00

It’s 2 in the afternoon on another beautiful cloudless Corvara day. I am sitting in my room with the window wide open and my shoes and socks off to let my sore feet air out. Dad and I just got back from hiking down the mountain from the Franz Kostner Hutte on the Piz Boe. I wanted to make sure and write a blog post in the afternoon as I am thrilled to say my dear friend Mckenzie Lewis got in touch with Amanda last night and told her to let me know he is driving up from Rome with his recently married bride Carlyn to come for a one night visit. I know we will likely do some adult socializing this evening and chances are I may not get to writing.

I woke to a text from Amanda letting me know Mac was coming and after breakfast I gave him a call and he told me he hoped to arrive about 3pm and for us to do whatever we had planned to do. Dad and I decided to take the Boe gondola up the mountain and have a hike as, although the motorcycling has been more than excellent, people around here take hiking very seriously and it would be a shame if we did not share in the experience while we were here.

After breakfast I went outside to get some video of the Sellaronda Bike Day that was happening all throughout this area. From 8:30am to 3:30pm they were closing all the major passes out of Corvara to motorized traffic for bicyclists to enjoy a car, bus and motorcycle free day. Dirk had told us that some 10,000 or so cyclists would descend upon the area and he was not kidding. It was amazing. By 8:30 when we were leaving to hike I had already seen 1000’s of cyclists ride past on the way up to the Passo Campolongo and as we got higher up on the mountain we could begin to grasp the sheer numbers. It is now 2:30 and there is still and hour left and throngs of cyclists are still passing by the La Fontana. One of the best parts of the day is that it is so quiet in town and especially up on the mountain. Only the sound of the breeze and birds to be heard. I am sure if the motorcyclists were out we’d be able to hear their engines way up on the hill so it was the most perfect day to pick for a hike.

At the top of the gondola we paused briefly for some views before getting on the double Vallon lift which took us about midway up the Piz Boe. The Piz Boe is a typical Dolomite mountain in that it is simply massive and rises alone out of the valley floor. From the top of the lift most hiking would require crampons in the snow or technical climbing gear and skills. The area was similar to the boulder field yesterday only flatter where we were and easier to move around in. It was a complete moonscape surrounded by snow, giant boulders and high peaks with views that seemed to stretch forever. I felt very small. The next time my mother says “get up in the airplane” to remind me how insignificant my problems can be I will translate that to say “get up on the Piz Boe.” As Dad said, it was a religious experience being there.

We hiked to the small Franz Kostner Hutte and signed the guestbook and took a couple of silly pictures. There were a number of other hikers there of all different ages and nationalities. I saw a large jutting knoll about 10 minutes away and we made the hike over to it for dramatic views. This was where I would build a rock cairn in memory of my brother. It was a very nice moment.

Dad and I did not take the easy or trail oriented route down. This area was so exposed you could sort of make your own way down and that is just what we did, climbing up and down boulders and rock outcroppings, all the while enjoying the miraculous views and pausing ever so often to admire the high mountain wildflowers. When we got to the ski run under the lift things got steeper and the only footing was over loose shale. We clung to the safety netting for part of the way down, and then shale schussed the rest of the way. It was thrilling.

The area we chose for lunch may have been the best yet. It was a beautiful pond in the bottom of a large cirque with crystal clear deep blue water and thick ice still in the middle. We sat on a grassy ridge just above the pond and made sandwiches with the bread, meat and cheese we bought in town before the gondola ride. It was incredibly relaxing and peaceful.

Although Dad had purchased round trip tickets on the gondola (not knowing what it would be like up there) we decided to hike down the mountain into town. My feet were already hurting as I only had my low hiking boots with me and the shale schussing had done a number on my feet, but it was only an hour walk down about 800 vertical feet along what seemed to be the most wonderful ski trail. I’ve said it before, I must come back here and ski. It simply has to be amazing.

Below the Gondola, you drop back into the tree line and the walk down was green and filled with yellow and purple wild flowers. I took a risk and filled my water bottle from a mountain stream but the water was so cold and clear I just couldn’t resist. When we hit the bottom we were only a very short walk back to the La Fontana and here I now sit, writing this and thinking about a nap before Mac arrives. It is still extremely quiet out my window with only the sound of bicycle gears shifting and wheels spinning. What a perfect day.

6/26 Castle Andrez/ Passo Falzarego/ Cortina/ Passo Tre Croci

2010-06-27T06:41:00.000-07:00

I think we are due for a day off. After another wonderful day on the bikes doing a 90mile or so loop out of Corvara, Dad and I are both admittedly tired and ready to take a bit of a break. We will see what tomorrow brings, but we are talking about taking a gondola up one of the mountains and taking a high country hike thru the Dolomites.

Dad mentioned this evening as we were walking around town that, in some respects the trip has been a little bit overwhelming. We have seen a lot of country and have put in many hours in the saddle. The views we have taken in, the endless tight turns we have cornered and the incredible passes we have crested have finally caught up with us. It’s time to let the bikes and our butts take a rest.

When I woke and looked out my window this morning I was surprised to see a mountain bike race taking place on the road below. It did not looked like it would impede our travel plans at all, but it was very cool to see all the bikers coming in large packs up the road. Tomorrow is also the Sellaronda Bike Day here in the Corvara area and according to Dirk some 10,000 road cyclists will be out on the roads, so they close 4 or 5 of the major passes for 6 hours to motorized traffic. Another excuse to take a hike.

We took a right immediately out of the La Fontana which puts you on the Passo Campolongo which I can see the bends of from my hotel room window. This was a very mellow pass which winds up thru high valley fields which are ski runs in the winter. We were stopped near the top for the bike race to pass thru and continued down towards Arraba. It seemed like there were thousands of cyclists on the road and there may in fact have been. In Arraba we were stopped one last time for the race and then left a lot of both the bicycle and motorcycle traffic behind us. Dad thought we were on the “Dolomite Road” (it sounds better in Italian) which is kind of like a Blue Ridge Parkway thru the mountains. As we headed up a forested pass, we could see the remains of a very old castle to our left. Fortunately we found the access road and were able to go right down to it. It was very excited as this was a “smelling of the roses” moment my Mother really wanted us to have.

It was the ruins of the Castle Andrez which was believed to date back to 1000AD. For close to 400 years it was a major defense outpost and area of political significance. What was so fascinating about the structure was that it was literally built on top of and around a natural rock outcropping. This added to the castle’s strength and it was apparently only overtaken once in a long siege after supplies inside had been depleted. It had been rebuilt after a few fires and eventually abandoned in the 1600’s as the area became less important politically. Castle Andrez has been undergoing more recent renovations with the hope of turning it into a museum but unfortunately many of the gates to take you inside the structure were locked. We were able to walk around the grounds and some of the more exposed parts of the infrastructure but were unable to see the inside. It was still very cool.

Just a few miles up we ascended the Passo Falzerego which we had come by the other day. We backtracked that direction about a mile as I wanted to take some pictures of the amazing boulder field at the top of the pass. Imagine if it had rained Hummer sized white boulders on a steep green hillside and you will get some impression of what this area looked like. It was something out of Lord of the Rings. Dad stayed with the bikes and I climbed up just a bit for a better perspective. It was incredibly steep and the scree was very sharp and in all my bike gear I was soon completely out of breath and could not go as far as I had hoped I'd be able to. I was still afforded an incredible view of the boulder field and somewhere behind me I could hear voices in the far distance. I turned around to face the huge vertical rock of the Lagazuio peak and noticed rock climbers a quarter of the way up. As I panned the rock face I realized there were climbers all over the face at different levels. This was a mammoth rock and it was mesmerizing to see them way up, as small as ants climbing ever higher.

We rode on thru the beautiful valley city of Cortina which was once host to an Olympic winter games. Although a large city, it seemed very pleasant and I would like to come back and visit sometime. We had lunch on top of the Passo Tre Croci which had a small lake and some old hotels. There were busses everywhere and lots of tourists, but the sandwich was cheap and bread delicious.

Down the other side of the Tre Croci we found ourselves in a deep canyon and eventually spilled out into the widest valley I had seen since coming off of the Stelvio. There was farmland and a much more urban feeling which brought with it traffic. I think this valley is one of the major access arteries around the Dolomites for people coming and going and it was good to finally leave it behind.

We ascended one final pass, the Passo Furcia which was barely a two lane road but with zero traffic. The down side took us through steep hillside farms where people were hand rakeing giant fields of hay. They still do it the old fashioned way in this part of the world.

Back in Corvara fairly early, we went to get gas and Dad had to put some oil in his bike as it was extremely low. We shopped for a bit in town and rested up before dinner. As the internet café was closed, after dinner I went to the expensive Hotel Posta Zirma and asked if I could access their wireless in the lobby. They couldn’t have been nicer and allowed me to use it for free so I was able to have a fantastic talk with Amanda and post last nights blog.

Once again I am sitting in my lovely little room and the moon has just risen over the top of the Passo Campolongo. My window is wide open and I am listening/watching the USA about to lose to Ghana in the second round of the World Cup. I can hear the cows on the hill above and the church bell in town ring. I look forward to hiking tomorrow and moving on back towards Germany and Heidelberg. I will miss the Dolomites a lot however and make a promise to return, with my wife, in the future. I really want to share this amazing area with her.

6/25/10 Giau Pass

2010-06-26T12:22:00.000-07:00

Ok, so call me a liar. I know that with each post I have said that the mountains get more beautiful, or that “this place” or “that place” is my favorite, but all of that was before I came to the Dolomites. The landscape and scenery in this area is more spectacular than anything I have ever seen in my life. All day I have been baffled by how to make a proper comparison to other places I have been and I have yet to come up with anything. If the Alps are the perfect mountains, the sort I drew in grade school by just making a series of ever larger upside down V’s, than the Dolomites are the complete antithesis of that. They are solid rock giants that look as if they were the remains of a great war between the Gods. Never do they seem to rest in an orderly range, but rather stand alone as craggy individual monoliths. It is that they are so not what I expected that makes them so glorious.

After another long day on the bike yesterday, I slept like a rock in my very comfortable room at the Pension La Fontana in Corvara. The bed provided a lot more space, but the typical European bathroom could use a little American super-sizing. Once again we woke to a beautiful, cloudless day and were up early and ready to ride. It was also quite warm at 9am so it was nice not only to not have to layer, but also to not have to worry about packing lots of extra gear in case the weather turned.

We left about 9:30am and headed up over the Passo Gardena, which rises right out of town. This pass was not anywhere near as imposing as what we had ridden the past few days. It had nicely banked turns that, although tight, were not the sort of 1^st gear hairpins we were used to. Corvara seems to be the main town in a huge network of towns connecting a gigantic ski area known as Alta Badia. There are lifts, gondolas and bahns everywhere you look and I think you could easily visit for a week and never ride the same chair twice. It’s massive.

There was a surprising amount of traffic up and down this pass from cars to motorcycles and busses. It really felt like GSMNP in the middle of the summer with an endless line of vehicles. I have learned to pass like a European on my motorcycle, which would never fly in the USA and I will really have to check myself when I get back home. People expect the bikes to pass them here and cars will often pull over to let you by. Dad and I would often pull over to let much faster sportbikes and supermotards pass us, often thanked with the right foot kickout. I look quite frequently in my side mirrors, but sometimes these crotchrockets will scream past in groups of 4 or 6 and you never knew they were there.

In the first 25k since leaving the hotel, we covered three passes and saw amazing views but never really got out of the traffic. The roads were also a little more the worse for wear and had lots of potholes and frost heaves. Finally, in Canazei we turned left and put most of the heavy traffic behind. We rode up to the Passo di Fedaia, where, at the very top in a long tunnel, a group of sport bikes came up fast behind us. The sound of their bikes in the tunnel was deafening even with my earplugs in and I thought they were coming to mow me down. At the far end of the tunnel we stopped for lunch and had pizza and cokes looking up to the massive Marmolada which at 3342M (over 10K feet) still had lots of snow on it and there were many hikers, small as ants, way up in the snowfields. We could also see where people had made ski turns and as we were about to leave we watched a guy come down.

Riding thru ever more beautiful scenery and continuing to go up and down pass after pass, we finally began the ascent of the Passo Di Giau. This was a very steep pass with hairpins like we had seen yesterday but near the top the road mellowed out into wide sweeping turns and we were able to begin to take in the view that would hands down be the most amazing sight my eyes have ever seen. At the crest of the pass is a restaurant and large parking area and there were hundreds of motorcycles of every make and type sitting up there. The view alone from the lot was great but there was a trail to a knoll maybe a 10-minute walk up that I could tell would provide panoramic views. I don’t understand why Dad and I were the only ones to make this easy trek as the short hike provided quite literally endless views of these most magnificent and commanding mountains. This is the longest Dad and I had stopped for scenery. I don’t think either of us wanted to come down. It was simply too beautiful.

We finally relented and got back on the bikes. I set up my helmet cam and told Dad I saw a spot just down a bit where I could stop and film him. According to Dad, as we set up the helmet cameras and our bike2bike communication devices, there were a number of other bikers who were staring at our equipment and pointing and talking in German and Italian. I hope they thought it was pretty cool. My impression is all of these guys would love to see themselves take a corner at the speeds they carry. We followed a threesome of sportbikes down the east side of the Giau and a female was leading the pack. It seemed that the guys behind her were “letting her lead” as they would occasionally sit a bit farther back in a turn in order to race around it. Her pace was perfect, if not a bit fast for Dad and I and it was kind of fun being part of a pack, racing down this road with excellent banked turns and solid road conditions. I honestly felt the best on the bike that I have felt all trip.

At the bottom of the Giau we saw the sign to go left with 30k back to Corvara. The female’s friends had given her the chance to lead and now flew past her and were out of sight. Dad and I stayed behind her for a bit as our skill level was similar but she was much more apprehensive about making passes and when we got behind a bus, Dad overtook, her, me and the bus on the inside of a hairpin turn. Now I am the first to criticize what I think is a stupid pass but Dad rode this thing like a pro. You could see way up the hill to know that there was no oncoming traffic and the turn was wide enough that Dad was able to dip far down below the bus. It was the most impressive thing I have ever seen Dad do on a motorcycle and would no doubt score him many points with these European riders.

Close to Corvara we rode up behind Harley Dog. He was a little Springer Spaniel who was riding in a metal box on the back of his owners Harley. It was so awesome and so silly at the same time, but Harley Dog looked like he was enjoying the ride. Back at the La Fontana, Dirk came out to meet us and told us that he had just ordered a round of beers and to meet him in the bar. We had a nice drink and more excellent conversation and promised to meet for dinner once again. We also talked about Belgian beers, which are a bit of a hobby for Dirk and he promised to send us some. I must say, Dirk embodies everything that I love about Europeans; good people in general… a great sense of humor, a thirst for knowledge, and most important a strong interest in who he is talking too and what we are talking about. I hope we will stay in touch.

Skyped Amanda at the local internet café, (I miss her terribly) and had another great dinner where I had a plate of local cheese for my main course. Now to bed. I don’t know if it’s possible to top today but there is every indication that it is possible. We will see what tomorrow will bring.

6/24/2010 Just when you think it couldn’t get any better…

2010-06-25T09:20:00.000-07:00

Today happens!!!

I’m not even sure where to begin exactly. Dad and I just had the most wonderful dinner at the Pension La Fontana in Corvara in Badia, our home for the next few days in the Dolomites of Northern Italy. The food was outstanding but what made it even more pleasurable was the great conversation with our new Belgian friend Dirk who we met at the bar before dinner. He struck up conversation with us about motorcycles and Dad asked him if he would like to join us and eat together. He is here alone for a week riding his bicycle and could not have been a more interesting and nicer fellow. I would say he is a little bit older than me, married with 8 and 12 year old boys. We talked about cycling, motorbikes, banking (his job), acting, Americans and Europe, and the list goes on. Our dinner lasted nearly 2½ hours and could have lasted another two if not for the fact that we were all so tired. He from peddling, Dad and I from another long day on the bikes. I look forward to seeing him tomorrow evening.

I did not sleep so well last night. Dad and I shared a room in our small hotel in Valdidentro and my bed I think was precisely 6’4” long which just happens to be my exact height. The sheets were also tucked so tight that when I tried to pull them loose a bit I ripped one corner of the top sheet and then gave up so I was quite literally confined to one sleep position. Thankfully I was so tired from a long day that I eventually got some shuteye.

We woke to the most beautiful cloudless skies imaginable and the first thing I did was go out on our small balcony for a view of the Cima Piazzi which dominated the entire horizon. That is not a view I would easily tire of.

We were on the bikes at 9am, which was the earliest we had saddled up so far this trip. We knew we had a long exciting day ahead starting with climbing up to the Passo Del Stelvio. We had come down the pass last night and both knew what we were in for and I can tell you that Dad was decidedly nervous. There were tunnels on this road that were little and dark and you would really not want to meet any oncoming traffic. The hairpins were also stacked on top of one another like the Grimsel Pass but the road was much narrower with shorter straights so every time you came out of a turn it felt as if you were going back into another.

We made it up to the top of the Stelvio without incident and this had to have been the best 66^th birthday present my Dad could have asked for. Here we were, on top of one of the most famous roads in the world on a perfect bluebird day and we had arrived early enough that we avoided the circus that I am certain that place becomes by lunch.

After taking our required photos next to the pass sign, Dad and I both went in different directions for unique pictorial perspectives. He went up to a restaurant called Tibet that is perched on a rock outcropping overlooking the southern section of the pass which we had yet to descend. I went the other way, taking a small, very steep hike up to a knoll just above the souvenir shops. I was able to get an almost 360* view and the mountains just went on forever. I could see the road just descend into what seemed like an endlessly deep valley. I got down first and wanted to try and get Dad a few souvenirs for his birthday. It was the very least I could do in appreciation for this once in a lifetime experience he had provided us. It is a blessing that I have the kind of relationship with my father that we are able to have an adventure like this and enjoy each others company and share the same passions. Truly a blessing indeed.

I found one souvenir shop, maybe not the most polished, but one that accepted Swiss Franc’s which is all I had and the woman who ran it, who I later found out was named Cristina, spoke a good bit of English and was extremely friendly. I bought Dad a keychain, a sticker, and a sew-on patch. I also got two postcards, a sticker for myself, and two Swiss cowbell Christmas tree ornaments for Amanda and my mother. All for the paltry sum of 78fr or nearly $80!!! There must be a mountain top tax because you can’t get these things anywhere else. Anyways, it was all worth it, and although small, I think Dad was very appreciative of his gifts, which I handed him in the bag I got them in. We spoke with Cristina for a bit longer and she told me very briefly of the history of this area. How it was once the border of Austria, Switzerland and Italy before WWI but afterwards Austria lost it and it became part of Italy. It is still very much a German speaking area. Neat.

After a delicious street vendor brat on some fresh focaccia bread, we suited up and prepared for our descent down the side of the Stelvio for which it is most famous. I had up to this point thought that what was so impressive about it was that you could see so much of the road and switchbacks without anything blocking the view. After all, it did not look very different that other passes we had done. Once actually on the road however I realized that what makes it so famous is not only the severity of the hairpin turns but also the steepness with which the road descends between then. Drop and turn, drop and turn. Add to that the fact that 100’s of motorcycles and a few cars we coming up the other direction and everyone is taking the turns wide to make the hairpins without having to downshift. This means that as I turn wide left around a hairpin (guardrail and 1000 foot drop on my right) there are often bikes and cars IN MY LANE as I go down, and when I swing right I need to go wide to make the turn and hope and pray no one is coming up. The experience lies in the actual driving itself, not in the views necessarily, although those were not too shabby, you just have no time to look at them.

Many minutes and what seemed like 1000’s of turns later we found ourselves at the very bottom in a long wide valley where apples were the abundant crop and the valley floor as well as the steep hillsides were filled with such farms. There was also immense traffic. It was a very busy two-lane road with shipping trucks, farm equipment and crazy Italian drivers. Everything they say about Italian drivers is true. To Americans they seem reckless, and maybe they are, but I think the deal is they trust that if you are ahead of them and they want to pass, that you will not alter your course. Essentially they are counting on you being consistent. This was never more true than watching them ride scooters in the fairly large city of Muren where they would scream thru the roundabouts without a care. One guy on a scooter passed Dad in a roundabout. It was amazing.

We stopped for lunch as a small rest area right at the border of the towns of Tirol and Kuens. We had a nice chat with a Brit named Mark who was on his fourth week of traveling alone by motorcycle. He must have some money saved up somewhere because the prices alone of gas in Europe would easily drain my bank account. He told us the pass we were headed up would be gorgeous and he was not lying. After a bit more traffic we dropped everyone behind us and began to ascend the Jaufenpass. This I think I can say without question is my favorite pass to date. While still in the tree line, everything was just so green. Occasionally you would break out of the forest to go thru small towns that seemed to cling to the sides of the mountain. The pass ascended steeply and the bikes on this road seemed more serous than others we had encountered. We were often lit up by crotchrockets around the scariest of turns. Dad and I were both tired and so just took it easy and waved lots of people by, although I don’t think many of them needed much waving. I do like it when you allow a biker to pass you, they kick out their right foot like a wave. As we got out of the tree line the views were never ending and the completely cloudless blue skies made it all the more dramatic. I am running out of adjectives to describe these mountains. Trust me, they’re pretty.

At the top of the pass Dad and I took a small hike and got some breathtaking photos and video footage and got back on the bikes for the final leg to Corvara. We hit some major traffic and construction on some fairly major roads we were forced to take but finally turned off for the last 30k. The sign said we were heading towards a pass and honestly I thought my head would explode if I had to make another hairpin, but fortunately Corvara is a bit before the pass gets steep. We have our first taste of the Dolomites, which, I know you won’t believe me, are more spectacular than anything I have seen thus far, but I am going to save that adjective laden post for tomorrow as I am the most wiped I have been since we started.

I am sitting here in my hotel room, looking at the moon rise over the ski lifts and I bid you a warm goodnight.

6/23/10 Conquering the Umbrail

2010-06-25T09:07:00.000-07:00

Andermatt to Semogo in Val Didentro, Italy

Woke up to our last morning in Andermatt and was certain I would once again open the curtains to see thick clouds, and was more than surprised to find brilliant blue skies and was able to see Andermatt in all it’s brilliance. And brilliant it was. The valley floor was electric green and the mountaintops were imposing and snow covered. Just being able to see the top of the small mountain out our hotel room window was a treat and I found myself often stopping my packing to look out at the views. What would it have been like if we had had weather like this the past 3 or 4 days? Spectacular no doubt but at least we knew today was going to be a beauty.

After breakfast we went for a short walk up the hill behind the town to take some pictures of the cows and the town below but it was not long before I was itching to get on the bike. We left about 10:45 and went over the Oberalp one last time. As I had been over this pass 3 times now I felt very comfortable in the sweeping turns, and near the top we stopped to take some more pictures and video. With the clear weather I was really able to gauge the size of the ski area of Andermatt/Sedrun and it is truly massive. I would love to come back here during the winter.

Down the Oberalp and east towards Chur. The Alps in all their glory are amazing. They are just everywhere with huge snowcapped peaks and lush valleys. I often thought of my father-in-law as the woodwork and craftsmanship of the homes and buildings is truly artful. We rode pretty much non-stop for close to three hours until we reached St. Moritz. In that time we rode up many passes (Lenzerheide, Pass Del Fuorn) and thru beautiful valleys. We saw deep gorges, and crystal clear snowmelt streams. They’re were areas that reminded me of Montana and Idaho. The Julier Pass over to St. Moritz was similar to the moonscape of the Grimsel but with huge peaks that shot straight up around us.

Dad and I kept radioing each other to stop and take pictures but would then decide to continue on. I think it is true that after a while all pictures of the mountains look kind of the same. Certainly to those who did not share in the experience.

We were both very excited to visit St. Moritz, the sight of two Olympics and were disappointed to find it to be just another glitzy ski town. There were tourists everywhere, lots of impatient drivers and nothing really worth noting. The hotels are neat in architecture and the lake we ate lunch around was quite picturesque but it is not a place I am yearning to return to. We had lunch (Dad got some bread, meat and cheese from the Co-Op grocery store) on a grassy knoll over looking the lake and got on our bikes for the final, exhilarating leg of our trip… The Umbrail!!!

We crossed the Pas Dal Fuorn (more spectacular views) and got gas in the very small town of Tschierv. In Valchava, a beautiful town with extremely tight roads thru the center, we made a sharp right and immediately began our ascent up the Umbrail. Dad had not given me any indication that this pass would be any different than the ones we had already crossed. I wouldn’t say I was “used” to riding in the Alps yet but my confidence was much higher and I felt I at least knew what to expect. Not so on the Umbrail. This pass was perhaps one of the craziest things I have ever experienced.

You start to climb up a steep wooded mountain and only have a view of the road in front of you. You can see up a .10 of a mile or so as there is a decreasing radius hairpin ahead. It honestly seemed as if the hairpins were so tight and steep they would begin to turn back on themselves. The road was the most narrow we had been on yet. It was maybe 12 feet wide. It’s no wonder they don’t drive big SUV’s over here, as they would not both fit on many roads. Add to all this bicyclers’, motorbikes (fast ones), some cars, and construction equipment like pavers and such and you can get some idea of the thrill of this road.

As the Umbrail breaks out of the tree line, the road turns to dirt for a short portion. I am not sure if this is the way it always is or part of a repaving project as only 2K up the road returns to solid asphalt. It flattens out in a high valley just enough to let you catch your breath before it sends you right back up hairpins. We were so high now the snow would get deeper with each turn and you began to see snow plowed walls on the side of the road.

We stopped to take some video in the bend of a turn and Dad pointed out the top of the Passo De Stelvio on top of a mountain. The Stelvio is perhaps the most famous motorcycle road in the world and we decided to go take a look at the top before we descend it tomorrow. The end of the Umbrail is also the Italian border where you come to a fork. You can go down to Bormio in one direction or up to Stelvio another. We went up and now were riding in a total snowfield. We stopped briefly at Stelvio as it had been getting late and we needed to find our hotel so we descended into Bormio, as we would be returning this same way in the morning. The descent was another scary road with stacked hairpins which were actually numbered for cyclists’ and tunnels which were so narrow and dark it was like driving at night.

Our Hotel, the Meuble Rosealpina, in the village of San Carlo, Valdidnetro, sits on the side of a hill overlooking some of the most spectacular mountains to date. I know I sound like a broken record but I mean it this time. The peaks of northern Italy are stunning and imposing. Dad found a hotel so small and in such a remote town that no one here, and I mean no one, speaks any English whatsoever. I tried to ask about internet and I am not sure the innkeeper knew what that was. Unfortunately the only Italian I know I’ve learned from The Sopranos and Frank Sinatra songs. Thank God for my iPhone applications.

We had dinner at an adjacent hotel and the waitress did speak very good English although she did not think so. I had a Curry Chicken which doesn’t seem very Italian but as I am in Italy, at and Italian restaurant, it’s counts as Italian food. It was the Raspberry Panachetti I had for desert that was the literal icing on the cake. The wine wasn’t so bad either.

Back to the Stelivo tomorrow and off to Covara in Badia in the Dolomites. Looks to be another amazing day.

Furka -> Grimsel -> Susten Passes

2010-06-22T14:08:00.001-07:00

Today was another one for the books. It’s no surprise that we woke up to low clouds in Andermatt but this morning it was the area towards the Furka that showed promise and not the lower Oberalp which we had already been over a couple of times. Dad and I both knew that all we had to do was get out of Andermatt so we suited up early and were on the road by 10am.

The plan was to try and bag a number of very famous passes in one day and we began with the Furkapass which gave us so much trouble our first ride on Saturday. Today was a completely different experience. It looked like we would encounter fog again towards the top, but we honestly did not know really where we were looking. When we got to the place where the fog got so thick on Saturday we realized we could see the top of the pass and there was blue sky at the summit. What was most amazing is the realization that Dad and I had made it a heck of a long way up the pass in the crazy dense fog and snow and did not even realize it. We were sort of impressed with what we didn’t know we had accomplished.

This time we stopped often and took pictures and video and upon cresting the top of the pass we were treated to sweeping panoramic views and deep blue skies. From the top of the top you can see all the way down to the bottom of the Furka and where the Grimsel Pass immediately begins and climbs straight up into what looked like a thick cloud bank. Dad and I turned on the helmet cams and began the trek downward towards the valley floor. It was cold and windy but exhilarating and the lack of guardrails and sheer plummets added to the excitement.

Once at the bottom you honestly do not have a moment to blink before you are climbing the Grimsel. The pass is really just a series of steep switchbacks connected by tight hairpin turns. The ride up was one of the quickest pass ascents we have yet made, and that cloud bank was not so bad although it was obvious they had had some snow overnight as there were many workers out shoveling in front of the souvenir shops and restaurants. The descent of the Grimsel towards Interlaken was something entirely different. It was almost like a moonscape with zero vegetation and nothing but rocks and snow. It was also extremely cold, compounded by the fact that I did not layer nearly as much as the day before.

The ride down just kept going and going, very much in contrast to the fast trip up. From moonscape we descended into a lush pine forest and finally to the fertile pasture valley floor. We passed the turn to the Sustan pass that we would take later in the afternoon and headed towards Interlaken. We went left at Interlaken towards the small tourist town of Lauterbrunnen, which is known as the Yosemite of the Alps and for good reason. The valley we rode thru sits in the shadows of 2000-foot sheer cliffs on either side that stretch for miles. This place was awe-inspiring. They’re the sort of walls you see people BASE jump off of on crazy Nat Geo shows. The kind of walls where narrow waterfalls spill off the edge of the cliff and fall so far they just become mist. It was amazing.

We went to the end of the valley where the road ends and had a big lunch at the Hotel Stechelberg. Dad wanted to go to the ski area of Wengen after lunch but we couldn’t find the turn and instead went to the ski area of Grindelwald which sits in the shadow of the Eiger. I only know the Eiger from the terribly great Clint Eastwood movie The Eiger Sanction which is only worth renting for a good laugh. Once again we were awed by the beauty and massive size of these mountains. Who ever thought to put a ski hill up these peaks must have been out of their mind. We were able to see the Gleckstein Glacier which was very cool.

After leaving this beautiful valley we had to head back the way we came but went thru Interlaken and rode along the turquoise colored lake Brienzersee. I had never seen water this color and it was often distracted as I road along it as it was somewhat mesmerizing. At the crossroads in Interkirchen we began our ascent up the Sustenpass which may be my favorite so far. Unfortunately we did not have the sun with us any longer but this pass was incredible. It climbed thru a thick forest for a long way up and then suddenly you rise above the tree line and are once again in a moonscape. This time however the fall off the edge was the steepest and farthest so far and there are no guardrails to even give you the illusion of safety. I am not really afraid of heights (unlike Dad who when there were no oncoming vehicles was riding in the lane closest to the wall) but I got the willies on a number of occasions. I was also tired and cold from a long day and it all sort of came to a head on this pass. I felt a great sense of accomplishment when we reached the summit only to have a super long ride back down.

Near the bottom we passed a couple riding a tandem peddle bike with a small trailer attached. I knew that by coming down they must have at some point gone up and an hour and a half later, sitting at dinner at our hotel in Andermatt they came peddling by. This meant they also had to have ridden back up the Goshenen pass back into town. They then pulled into the campground next to our hotel and we watched them get off the bike and set up a tent. That right there, ladies and gents, is the truest definition of love I have ever seen. To have to count on your partner to be in sync with your peddling, going up and down what must seem like endless passes only to have to then get in a tent with no shower just to get up the next morning to do it all over again is beyond me. I love my wife more than anything I have loved in my life, but I think we might kill each other before lunch if we had to make such a journey.

Tomorrow we leave Andermatt for somewhere in Italy before we go to Corvara for a few days in the Dolomites. It feels like I have been here for a while and at the same time feels like we are just getting started. The adventure becomes more adventurous each day. I can’t wait to see what tomorrow will bring.

Auf Wiedersehen Switzerland!!!

When motorcycles dream...

2010-06-21T14:02:00.000-07:00

They dream of days like today.

Woke up early and threw open my curtains expecting to see bright sun and was more than disappointed to see the fog was thicker than yesterday. I opened my window and found it was very cold, wet and extremely windy. Dad and I were both discouraged but I got online and looked at webcams out side of the valley we are staying in and the clouds looked much higher and some areas had spots of sunshine. I was not going to let anything get in my way of riding today so after going to the Info kiosk and asking some questions about maps and weather we got on the bikes around 11:30am

Ascending the Oberalp pass once again out of Andermatt we were quickly met with thick fog and I knew Dad was again suffering from the lack of visibility. We took it very slow and closing in on the top of the pass it began to snow on us and with each meter farther we went the snow got harder and deeper on the sides of the road. The asphalt thankfully was only wet and not icy but there was easily 6" of fresh snow at the top of the pass which had been plowed at some point during the night.

I have to admit I was loving it. I knew Dad was in hell but I couldn't help relishing in the fact I was on a motorcycle in the Alps in June and it was dumping snow. These are once and a lifetime types of experiences.

The other side of the pass drops quickly in vertical and it was not long before we were out of the snow completely and only a few miles past that when the road was totally dry. Another 10k down the mountain and the sun began to peak out and it quickly warmed. In Disentis we turned right to ascend the Lukmanier Pass. This was a stunning valley with large, green hillside pastures dotted with old brown alpine huts. The road was one of the best we have encountered. We stopped often to take video and snapshots and for most of the ride up the pass we were the only vehicles on the road.

At the top of the Lukmanier sits a picturesque mountain lake with one small restaurant/hotel at the crest of the pass. We stopped to take some pictures and it was very cold so Dad suggested we go in for hot chocolate. The place was empty except for some peddle bikers who were unbelievably in bikes shorts and jerseys but taking into consideration the pass they just came up there is no doubt they were warm from leg power. We had lunch and when the Zurich Harley Riders Club arrived we knew it was time to leave. Nothing against Harley riders, but incredibly loud pipes in these quiet, peaceful mountains is just annoying.

Back on the bikes heading down south towards Biasca, it went from partly cloudy to full blown blue skies and giant peaks. This was the Alpen views I had been waiting for. It seems the trick to Andermatt is just to get the hell out of Andermatt as everywhere else in Switzerland seems to be picture perfect. The descent of the Lukmanier is without a doubt one of the prettiest places I have ever been. Around ever tight corner is a bigger snowcapped mountain, cascading down to a lush green valley and little towns dot the landscape. What I found most interesting is that a sign at the top of the Lukmanier told us that this was the Italian speaking area of Switzerland and this became much more evident as we descended to the valley floor. The archituecture went from the classic Swiss alpine stlye of Andermatt to a style that was decidedly Roman. I must ask my Roman archelogist friend if I am correct, but my impression is that the Romans came this far north some 2000 years ago and settled this area without going up into the high mountains where it would be much colder and the winters much harsher. For comparison, imagine going from the predominantly Crasftman home styles of Western North Carolina to the Adobe architecture of Arizona in a distance of only 75 miles. It was really amazing. I felt like we were in a totally different country and in some respects I am sure we were.

We also went from temps in the mid 30's to temps in the mid 60's or low 70's in no time. I had been layered in a zipup long john shirt, my orange Patagonia quilted pullover, my bike jacket insulated shell, my armoured bike jacket and a rain coat on top of that (with ski gloves on, a balacava on my face, my bike pants with the insulated liners in, long john bottoms and my rain pants) to having to shed essentially everything but a long sleeve t-shirt and my mesh bike jacket and I was still very hot. When I took them off the inside of my rain pants were soaked with sweat.

At Biasca we turned north to go over the famous St. Gotthardo pass. It once again got cold as we went steeply up in altitude and I had to relayer back up, but this time not so thick. The St. Gotthardo was breathtaking. The current road must be fairly new as I think we could see the old road off to the right. It has huge sweeping turns and panoramic mountain views in every direction. Close to the top we stopped at a tourist rest area and took some pictures and videos. I got a great video of some crotch rockets coming up the pass and one guy blowing past a car just out of a tunnel. They stopped at the rest area and I asked which one was in first. A Dutch fellow named K.C. introduced himself and was very psyched at the video I got of him and we exchanged emails so I could send him the YouTube link when I post it. The roads are great, the food is great & the views are great, but the best part of the trip thus far has been meeting such wonderful and interesting Europeans. I envy friends and relatives who have had the opportunity to live here for a time. It saddens me when I hear of American military who are stationed over here and never leave the base. They are truly missing out.

At the top of the pass it is only 5 miles down to Andermatt and wouldn't you know it, there was fog the whole way and the town was again socked in. The clouds had certainly lifted more then at any time since we arrived but I still don't have any idea what the place looks like on a clear day. I am certain it is stunning.

Weather looks to improve even more tomorrow and we have a long ride planned so I am off to bed. I have created a quick movie of our adventure today and it shows many of the things I've written in the post. Just click the link below...

Movie of Lukmanier Pass to St. Gotthado Pass

Zermatt on Fathers Day

2010-06-20T13:37:00.000-07:00

   Woke up to heavy showers in Andermatt and knew right away we would not be riding today. After the experience yesterday it simply was not worth it and we probably needed a day off anyway. Christoph, our innkeeper suggested we take the train to Zermatt which for those of you who do not know is an international skiing mecca. This was a no brainer as Dad and I have both dreamed of visiting there.

   The train did cost close to $100 per person but it was nearly a 4 hour trip oneway so the price was not super outrageous and let me tell you it was worth it. The train ride both to and from was breathtaking. Once we went under the 15k tunnel out of Andermatt we were treated to high clouds, mountain peaks and the occasional patch of blue sky. The train was almost empty except for one older fellow sitting across from us. He kept looking over at Dad and I and I could tell he wanted to communicate. I can't remember what I said to strike up conversation, but I found out very quickly he did not speak a word of English. We did however talk for about an hour and a half, almost constantly. I was able to gather his name was Gerhard and he was from the "flat area of Germany" not too far from Hamburg. He was traveling in Switzerland for a month on the Swiss Pass which is like a Eurorail pass only better. It is very cheap and gives you tons of discounts of other Swiss attractions like Trams and such.

   A few years ago, (he was easily in his mid 70's and more likely in his 80's) he peddle biked many of the major Europeans passes and traveled extensively (on his bike) thru the Mediterranean and had the pictures to prove it. We also talked about the Matterhorn and other big mountains and he suggested a few things for Dad and I to do. It was difficult but very fun trying to communicate and all in the name of friendship and camaraderie. A highlight of my trip to say the least.

   My friend left us in Brig and we switched trains for the final leg to Zermatt. It's hard to explain how steep and rocky the canyon which the train cut thru was. It is an engineering marvel that they were able to put a train or road for that matter along this valley.

   We arrived in Zermatt at lunch so of course all the shops and restaurants were closed because lunchtime is the perfect time to close a restaurant. Europeans are crazy like that. Zermatt is akin to a Vail with one major walking road which takes you up to the ski-lifts. We walked up to the bottom of the gondola and inquired about the time it would take to ride up as we needed to catch a train back to Andermatt in time for dinner (4 hour train ride remember?) When we were told it would be an hour up (it's a big freaking mountain) Dad was not too thrilled but I told him "It's Fathers Day and missing out on this experience is not worth getting back just for dinner. And I'm paying." Well, it cost $100 for the two of us to take a gondola just halfway up the mountain, but I am sure glad we did it.

   I don't want to harp on this but I need to say it for my own sake...
I have skied all over the United States and never have I seen a mountain like Zermatt. The Gondola went over trails that no one would ever consider putting a lift on in the US. I thought Vail was big (and it is, the largest in the lower 48 at 5000+ skiable acres) but it is dwarfed by Zermatt. We only went up halfway as the clouds made it not worth going farther up, but halfway for Zermatt is probably more vertical than any mountain in the US. My mind was blown. I MUST come ski here and Andermatt some time in my life while I still have the legs to get down.

Anyways, if you didn't know Zermatt is also home to the famous Matterhorn which we sadly could not see as it was hidden in the clouds. We took some photos and quickly descended back down as it was very cold up there. They ski 365 days a year but not today as the fog was so thick. We did however make it back down and to the train depot in time for the one to get us back to Andermatt by dinner. The ride back was prettier than going to. The sky turned deep blue and the mountain peaks were amazing right until we reached the tunnel back. As soon as we got to the other side, would you believe it, it was raining and almost zero visibility in Andermatt. Oh well. Everyone promises we will have good weather tomorrow so time will tell. I am ready to get back on the bike.

I would like to take one moment to apologize, especially to my dear wife, for the length of these blogs. It is quite possible she has not even made it this far in today's post. I do apologize. I agree that "brevity is the soul of wit" and that truth be told, no one is likely interested in my ramblings. I start all these posts with the intention of just making a quick point or two, but I am flooded with memories and experiences that I do not want to forget. This blog is very selfish, I admit. It's more for me to look back on in 5, 10 or 15 years and share with my children. If you have made it this far, thank you. I appreciate your patience.

Think positive for better weather.

A little bit of bad and a little bit of good...

2010-06-19T13:53:00.000-07:00

   Today started off well enough. We woke up to clouds but they were high, we had views of some mountain peaks and the roads were dry. We decided to take it easy and have a leisurely breakfast and I walked into town to go to the Geldautomat (ATM) and take some photos. BIG MISTAKE!!!

   By the time we got ready to go and suited up, the clouds had dropped, the views were gone and the roads were wet. As disappointing as this was we were not going to let it stop us. There was a classic car Rally going on and there were tons of 50's and 60's Fiats, Triumphs, Benzs and other classics going in our direction. After fueling up we headed west out of Andermatt towards the Furka pass. As we had never been here before we did not know where the top of the pass was so the low clouds meant nothing to us.

   Quickly ascending up tight switchbacks Dad and I were soon in the thick of the fog. The temp dropped dramatically and soon it was snowing. I am truthfully not exaggerating when I say there were places where I could not see 50 feet in front of me. I stopped to get video of Dad and he got up ahead of me. I tucked in behind a small car and just followed their lights. Occasionally Dad would radio to say there was a bus coming down and within a minute a full size charter bus was bearing down upon me. There was barely room on the road for the both of us and at times we would have to stop to let the bus by or make a corner. At one point, way up in the heavy rain/snow and fog, I found myself on a tight, steep hairpin turn at a complete stop waiting for a bus to make the hairpin up ahead. The cars ahead of me starting backing down the hill and I had no choice but to back down myself. It was one of the scariest moments I have ever had, on a motorcycle or not. I was freezing cold, my face was numb and here I am walking my bike backwards down this incline and around the corner in the snow with cars coming up behind me which can't see my little bike lights till they are feet away. A motorcycle ahead of me (not Dad) finally gave up and gunned it past the traffic and I followed threading the bus and traffic with inches to spare.

I finally caught Dad at the top of the Furka and we decided this was all just stupid and turned around. Thankfully our descent did not have the traffic issues and we were able to take it very slow without pressure from behind. Safely back in the hotel we took a nice long break.

A few hours later it looked like it was clear on the other side of Andermatt up the Oberalp pass and we decided to make a go of it. GOOD DECISION!!! The roads were dry and the sun actually peaked out in places. This was what I had been waiting for. Fast sweeping turns thru the mountains. I can only imagine what it might be like in good weather. We crested the pass, went down a few miles and turned around and headed back to Andermatt as the weather was once again taking a turn for the worse.

Another fantastic dinner in the hotel and I've made a couple of videos to give readers an idea of what our day was like. Click on the links below...

Furka weather

Oberalp Helmet Cam w/ Cows

The weather does not look to improve but maybe we will take a hike or ride the train thru the mountains. No sense in sitting around town. We are in the Alps after all.

If the Black Forest is Heaven

2010-06-18T14:22:00.000-07:00

Lord you can take me now!!!

Today was one of the longest, most beautiful and challenging days I have ever had on a motorcycle. I am quite exhausted right now so I will do my best to keep this brief.

I am writing this from the Hotel Aurora in the small mountain village of Andermatt, Switzerland in the heart of the Alps. We left Heidelberg about 10:30am after having some difficulty with my motorcycle seat. Once fixed we headed south down the Autobahn towards Baden Baden. The Autobahn was a bit scarier today. People just fly down that road at incredible speeds. Dad and I were averaging about 120KPH (about 80mph) and cars would quite literally pass us like we were standing still. And not just one car… 14 go by us at once all doing 110-120mph, and then cut in right in front of us. The wind was also blowing hard which did not help.

We got off the autobahn in the town of Buhl and went right up the mountains into the Black Forest. Halfway up we entered the clouds but by the time we crested the ridge, the sun popped out and it was very similar to riding the Blue Ridge Parkway. We stopped for a cola and a dried sausage (German jerky) at a small Gasthaus and the women working there were very helpful with my terrible German.

The Black Forest is spectacular. The big difference between it and the forests of the East Coast of the US is that it seems almost entirely made up of fir trees. It is so dark on the ground when you look into the woods I can understand why it is called the Black Forest (Schwarzwald). It is also clearly well managed. You can see lots of tree stumps next to firs that are at least 30-40 years old so you know there is selective cutting happening which is probably how they avoid devastating fires in such a dense wood. In the 150K or so we rode thru the forest we saw 3 Olympic ski jumps and at least 8-10 little ski hills. We’re talking one run cut into a mountain with a Poma or t-bar up the side. No lifts. Winter sports are clearly in the blood over here.

We rode thru tons of little mountain towns, (Wolfach, Titisee) each with that distinctive alpine architecture. Just the sort of place you imagine cuckoo clocks being made. It is also exactly how Hollywood makes out the German countryside whenever you watch WWII movies. I kept waiting to come over a ridge and see a battalion of Nazi tanks sitting in a field. It was somewhat surreal.

We crossed into Switzerland over the Rhine in the town of Tiengen and my first impression was that Switzerland is extremely industrial. From the time we crossed the border to the time we got past Luzern (about 80k) we never really saw countryside. We hit Luzern at rush hour and were stopped dead in traffic. For the first time in the day we had rain and we weren’t going anywhere. A guy in a Benz pulled up next to us and gave hand signals to split lanes. Dad just shook his head “no” and indicated it was not wide enough. About a minute later, a guy on a motorcycle goes right past us on the dotted line and Dad, without even saying anything to me just follows. I was very hesitant at first but went for it. We rode for at least 2 or 3 miles splitting the lanes and with the exception of one or two cars, people we actually getting out our way and giving us room to go by. It’s simply amazing the courtesy with which people drive over here. It was however exhausting. Our bikes are heavy, especially when driving slowly and we could not of been doing 10mph and it required our complete attention. After a bit we gave up and got into traffic and waited but shortly after it broke up and we were moving again. After going thru a 5 mile tunnel we were officially in the Alps. The mountains were socked in with clouds so there was not a lot to see. We went over one pass to get to Andermatt and it was straight up a mountain in pea soup fog around hairpin turns. It was much scarier than splitting lanes. I am thankful there was no one in front or behind us.

Arrived at the hotel, had dinner, Skyped home and here we are. What a day!!! Hopefully the weather will break while were here, but Andermatt looks kind of like a nice, non-trashy Swiss Gatlinburg so I can think of worse places to be stuck in.

German Restaurant

2010-06-17T12:38:00.000-07:00

Hey Mom... What the hell is this woman talking about???

120 on the Autobahn...

2010-06-17T10:51:00.000-07:00

…Kilometers that is. Still it's pretty cool.

Ok, lets get one thing out of the way early. If you want to see how big (pun intended) America's obesity problem is just come to Europe. I haven't seen a fat German since we arrived. I take that back, the old lady who served our lunch today was the model of a fat old German lady but that is to be expected right? Otherwise all the Germans I have seen and met are thin and healthy. Lot's of people exercising on purpose or getting exercise by riding a bike to work or the store. The only fat people I have seen are other Americans at dinner last night and on the tour today. Point made. I won't speak of it again.

Today was fantastic!!! Unfortunately we had a spot of rain before lunch which gave us a good soaking, but after lunch it was only cloudy. We began the day with a visit to the Heidelberg Castle. You can Wikipedia it for more info, but suffice it to say it was very cool. Walls that were 16 feet thick and a very interesting connection with the French (Louie the 14th) and the British (Mary Queen of Scots & Shakespeare). Stephan (Our guide and host) is incredibly knowledgeable about the area and provided lots of good information peppered with a great sense of humor.

After the castle we went on a great ride that first took us thru many towns in a sort of suburban setting, and then out into the countryside up and over some hills. The roads were wonderful but with the rain we took it pretty slow. We stopped for lunch at a very quaint mountainside restaurant. We were the only patrons and the woman who served us did not speak any English. I did my best to communicate, but I think she really got a kick when I pulled out my iPhone and used my translator app to tell her how much I enjoyed the goulash and brat. She gave a very good laugh at that. Stephan told us the road we came down which was very curvy was not open to motorcycles on the weekends. Too many accidents. He compared it to the Tale of the Dragon in the Smokies and said the German Govt. said if people are going to continue to act like morons and race around the hills then they will just close the roads.

It dried up after lunch and we road through more countryside till we came to the city of Neckarsulm where we went to the NSU Motorcycle museum. Lots of vintage bikes and again Stephan's knowledge was a great addition. His girlfriend Ira was with us and although she didn't speak much English she couldn't have been nicer.

On the way home we got on the Autobahn for about 40 kilometers. It really isn't that bad except that it is true that people do fly past you. The way to stop people driving slow in the left hand lane in the States is to get rid of speed limits. If you drove slow in Germany you'd be killed. You have to check your mirrors two or three times before you change lanes because someone who looks far away upon first glance may be next to you in 2 or 3 seconds. It's not scary but it does require your full attention. On that note, American drivers could learn a lot from Europeans. They really have got it together over here. They may drive fast but they are also very courteous. For example we were on a two lane road behind a large truck. The truck quickly pulled off halfway into the breakdown lane for us to pass even though there was oncoming traffic. We had plenty of room on motorcycles. I can't imagine any truck or car for that matter letting you by in the US. We were also flashed to take left turns from cars when they clearly had the right to proceed before us. You come to a 4 way stop in the USA and it's a game of who's gonna go first cause everyone else deserves to wait.

It's just cool being and riding in Europe. It feels very foreign. Big surprise there, I know. Maybe it's the different signage, or the fact that everyone drives small cars or that the buildings are a mix of the modern with the past, but there is just a different vibe and I like it.

Hey there America...

2010-06-16T06:23:00.000-07:00

Here I am in Heidleburg, Germany at the B&B of Stephan Knopf from who we are also renting our bikes. Just woke up from a long nap as I didn't really get much rest on the plane. It was one of the worst freaking flights I have ever been on. For one, I think United has a reputation for the tightest seats in coach and it is dead on. I had to sit curled to the right the entire time and kept bumping shoulders with the small teen girls next to me. I can't imagine what it would be like sitting next to a large person. To make matters worse, we were traveling with at least 50 teenage foreign exchange students who quite literally did not shut up the entire flight. They were signing songs, and sitting in the rows, and shouting to each other in other rows. It was like a school bus. I had in ear plugs, wore a mask and took an ambian and the combination of travel factors overwhelmed all of that. Anyways, that is all behind me for the next two weeks.

The weather from Frankfurt down to here has been good. Stephan eased some of our concerns about the weather in Andermatt. I think we will just have to see how it goes. He did suggest that we not plan so far in advance and not worry about getting hotels as it is not the season yet. I hope we will heed his advice when the weather could screw us.

Ok, I'm up and ready. Going to go work on the bikes and get this trip started. I will send pictures asap. At least I have internet the next few days.

Frankfurt airport.

2010-06-16T00:51:00.000-07:00

We're here. Standing in baggage claim in Frankfurt. Worst flight of my
life. We sat in the kids sections (about 50 teens and Tweens) and they
talked at full volume the entire night. Most uncomfortable seats as
well. Looking forward to getting to Hiedleburg and kicking back.
More to come.
Sent from my iPhone
--

103 W Maple

2010-06-14T18:09:00.000-07:00

The Peter Savage boyhood home in Alexandria, VA. Got to drive around the old stomping grounds this evening.

Arrived in DC about 3pm this afternoon after an uneventful drive from Asheville. Went to Five Guys for dinner and then went on a slow tour of the old neighborhoods I used to run around in. Amazing how much changes and yet how much stays the same. So glad my dad had to leave this area. It's very cool but the traffic and amount of people per square inch is unbelievable. A once a decade visit is enough.
Can't wait till we get on the plane tomorrow. Will update more then.

The day has finally come...

2010-06-13T10:58:00.000-07:00

It feels like I have been waiting for this day for an eternity. Tomorrow Dad and I are heading out on our motorcycle trip to Europe. Hopefully I will have good internet access so that I can update this blog as often as possible with pictures, movies and a choice word or two. For now I won't bore you but check back often. We'll be overseas from June 16 -July 2. Please keep your fingers crossed for good weather.
While you wait for the next update, enjoy this littly ditty...

Flying High from svgklingon on Vimeo.

Denver to Marion, Il

2010-03-07T05:52:00.000-08:00

Long, long day yesterday. The 3rd and final push to Asheville is today. Hope to make it in less than 8 hours. The blog is a little out of whack because I finally have a really good connection at this Holiday Inn and could post a bunch of videos. The iPhone is the perfect tool for travel blogging. Cant wait to use it in Europe. Thanks to all of you who have been following. I'll add some edited videos in the next few weeks> Our next big adventure will be a Hot Air Balloon ride so look for that coming up this spring.

More wind farm

2010-03-07T05:45:00.002-08:00

Kansas wind farm

2010-03-07T05:45:00.001-08:00

I took some pics of this heading west but it was getting dark. During the day this farm went on for 20 or more miles I'd say. Bigger than the one in PA that my Dad and I saw.

Middle of Kansas.

2010-03-07T05:44:00.001-08:00

Dead Center of Kansas

2010-03-07T05:43:00.003-08:00

Just what the title says. This rest stop was right on the spine of our atlas.

Leaving Denver

2010-03-07T05:43:00.001-08:00

Leg #2 begins. The long trek across Kansas.

Gallon of ice cream

2010-03-07T05:42:00.001-08:00

I swear I didn't think this three scoop fudge brownie Sundae would be
this big. When the 17 year old employee said he had never had that
request I should have known better. Almost finished it though.

Dinner in Denver

2010-03-07T05:40:00.001-08:00

At a great Mexican resturante with nick and Dave. Carne adovada!!!

Goodbye Vail

2010-03-07T05:39:00.001-08:00

On the road. Leg number #1. Nice to say we took a few runs before driving back to NC.

Looking back up

2010-03-07T05:38:00.001-08:00

At vail on last time.

The Last Run

2010-03-07T05:37:00.001-08:00

Coming down the mountain after a great last day on the slopes.

East of the Mississippi

2010-03-06T18:53:00.000-08:00

Sitting at an Applebees east of St. Louis. We are both tired and
feeling good. Going to shoot for Paduca, KY which will leave only 7hrs
for tomorrow. Home in time to watch some Oscar red carpet.
Waiting a while now for our food. It's never quick to sit and eat on
the road.

Sent from my iPhone

No turning back

2010-03-06T09:19:00.000-08:00

Fueling up in Colby, KS

Well hello there...

2010-03-05T11:52:00.000-08:00

Outside the Red Lion in Vail

Lunch at the Red Lion

2010-03-05T11:41:00.000-08:00

Just had our last vail run, now our vail lunch.

Dinner with the Hodges

2010-03-04T17:44:00.000-08:00

Mac and Sue say "see you a month from tomorrow."

What a bargin...

2010-03-04T15:06:00.000-08:00

Only at Beaver Creek

Amanda's new Pati

2010-03-03T16:52:00.000-08:00

A-Basin Teaser

2010-03-03T16:16:00.001-08:00

I have tons of video and pictures from today to sift thru. This is nearly a taste of our day at the Basin!!!

I tried...

2010-03-02T17:46:00.000-08:00

...but couldn't finish this caraf of sake. I will tell you that Amanda
is driving home.

Osaki dinner

2010-03-02T17:44:00.000-08:00

Sushi and a little to much sake. Thanks Mike!!!

Vail Day 3

2010-03-02T15:50:00.001-08:00

3.2.10 Beautiful Day in Vail. Dropped my glove in the toilet and still managed to have some of the best runs in memory. Getting a little tired by the end though which you'll plainly see.

I shot the video using a ContourHD 1080p using the 720 @ 60fps setting. I forgot to align the camera with the lasers and didn't think about it all day. I am sorry about the weird letterbox but is less annoying than tilting your head to the side.

Beautiful Bells Camp

2010-03-02T14:09:00.001-08:00

After lunch, after the glove disaster. How could one be upset on a day as pretty as this!!!

Bad Luck in Blue Sky Part 2

2010-03-02T14:08:00.001-08:00

No big deal. I skied the rest of the day. It was beautiful out.

Bad Luck in Bells Camp Part 1

2010-03-02T13:59:00.001-08:00

Lost in the abyss...

Mt Holy Cross

2010-03-02T10:47:00.000-08:00

Lunch at Blue Sky Basin on an unbelivable day!!!

1st Chair

2010-03-02T07:55:00.000-08:00

Another banner bluebird day at Vail

Thanks Mac

2010-03-01T17:58:00.001-08:00

This resturant was the best meal we've had since leaving Asheville.
Mmmmm!!!

Power Dinner

2010-03-01T17:57:00.001-08:00

The GasHouse

2010-03-01T16:57:00.001-08:00

What's left of our dinner at The GasHouse in Edwards. Reccomended by
Mac Hodge. This is just what we need. Meat & potatos. Gonna be a blue
bird CO day tomorrow and A-Basin on Wednesday!!!

Lodgepole

2010-03-01T14:20:00.001-08:00

Vail 3/1/10

Gummie Bears

2010-03-01T09:50:00.000-08:00

The staple of any good day on the slopes!!!

View from Eagles Nest

2010-03-01T09:45:00.000-08:00

Amanda on Avanti

2010-03-01T09:15:00.000-08:00

Red Zinger @ Vail

2010-02-28T20:32:00.001-08:00

Shot on 2.28.10 in the Back Bowls. First day on skis for me in two years.

Pain...

2010-02-28T19:27:00.000-08:00

It is quite literally taking every fiber of my being to write this post. I can't remember the last time I was this tired. 1st day back on the slopes in two years and it didn't disappoint. Nick and Mike and I went up early without Amanda who was nursing an altitude headache. We started over in Lionshead and made our way along the mountain's ridge doing nothing but bomber, top to bottom groomer runs.
Snow was really good in some places and a little baked in others. Great to get back out there with the boys but the altitude just wipes you out. We met up with Amanda at Two Elks Lodge for lunch and when we left the lodge we were all so tried we skied right to the bottom (slowly) and took the bus back to the car.
Mike and Nick have both left and Amanda and I are both sitting in a sort of daze watching the Vancouver Closing Ceremonies. It's been a great Olympics. I will miss it.
More I hope tomorrow. Just Amanda and I so it should be a bit slower of a day

Lunch @ Two Elk

2010-02-28T12:11:00.000-08:00

On the lift...

2010-02-28T08:12:00.000-08:00

With nick and mike

COLORADO!!!

2010-02-27T15:01:00.000-08:00

Where's Oz???

2010-02-27T14:13:00.001-08:00

This video is a bit out of sequence with the rest of our trip but I wanted to share a snippit of our ride thru Kansas. Taken between 4-6pm on 2/26/10. Edited with iphone.

Lunch with the Bohrman's

2010-02-27T11:37:00.001-08:00

Front Range

2010-02-27T10:10:00.000-08:00

Finally, after nearly 20hrs in the car and 1400 miles, the CO Front
Range is in sight.

Goodland, KS

2010-02-26T21:09:00.000-08:00

Finally out of the car for the night. At the Comfort Inn in Goodland, KS which is 17 miles from the KS/CO border. Only about 5 1/2 hours to Vail from here so tomorrow should be a casual drive day. Total of 14 hours & 20 minutes today from Clarksville to here.

We made it into the Mountain Time zone but did not do 1k miles which blows my mind. I have always wanted to do an "Iron Butt" which is a 1k miles on a motorcycle in one day. I think I am going to rethink that goal.
Kansas is an amazing picture of vastness. It is simply huge and no real interesting landscape features to speak of. I can't help but think of every post-apocolypic Hollywood film that takes place in a Kansas type of environment. What happened so badly during the apocalypse that it forced all the survivors to move to Kansas?
Our dinner at IHOP in Hays was one of the most depressing meals Amanda and I have every eaten. Not only was the food barely edible, everyone sitting at the restaurant seemed to be either as road weary as us or spending their Friday night at IHOP which suggests they must be living on one of Dante's levels of hell. Poor Amanda said if she didn't live till breakfast, that would be her last meal which made her very sad.
Still on East time so it's midnight and my brain hurts. Hopefully the drive will be as smooth tomorrow.

1111.1 Miles...

2010-02-26T18:22:00.000-08:00

...from Asheville. Some where in Central Kansas.

Windfarm

2010-02-26T18:21:00.000-08:00

Central Kansas Windfarm

Kansas Sunset

2010-02-26T18:19:00.000-08:00

Hays Kansas

2010-02-26T18:12:00.000-08:00

It is 8:10 and I am sitting in an IHOP off Rt70 in Hays, Kansas. This
state is truely a marval of vastness. I thought I was prepared to
tackle it in KC and when we looked at the map amd had just crossed
over the center of the two page atlas, I got severly depressed.
Food just came...

Sent from my iPhone

Gateway to the West

2010-02-26T10:55:00.000-08:00

Meet me in St. Louie

2010-02-26T09:29:00.001-08:00

At a rest stop about 30miles east of St. Louis. Seem to be making
pretty good time. Not a whole lot of traffic and so far beautiful
weather.
Sorry we haven't taken any pictures but there is really not much to
show. Lots of farm land but now we are starting to see the little
individual oil thingys that remind me of ducks pecking the water.

Lunch after St Louis and maybe an update.

Sent from my iPhone

Last Train To Clarksville

2010-02-26T05:31:00.001-08:00

Long...long day ahead...

CO Trip begins...

2010-02-26T05:29:00.001-08:00

Leaving Asheville... late... hoping to make it far into TN. Little nervous about this daunting drive.

Vail or Bust!!!

2010-02-25T13:42:00.000-08:00

Amanda and I are headed to Vail. Our plan is to drive thru at least one timezone tonight (Thursday the 25th) and then really bust it tomorrow to try and get thru Kansas. That will leave us with a short drive to Vail on Saturday.

I think this is going to be a pretty epic adventure so stay tuned. We will update from the road and the slopes as much as possible. Hopefully we'll have photos & videos to keep you interested. It will really all depend on what kind of internet connections we have.

Wish us luck on the road!!!

Humbolt Redwoods

2009-10-05T20:39:00.001-07:00

Leaving LA 1

2009-09-13T20:08:00.001-07:00

Our first day along the Pacific Coast Highway. As you can see we were a little delerious by the end of the day.

Last meal in California

2009-08-15T18:42:00.001-07:00

Sitting at Lori's Diner about to shut the door on this vacation. It's
been alot of fun but we are both ready for home and normal life.
Thanks for checking in with the old blog and look for a final thoughts
and pictures soon. Our car service to the airport comes at 4am. It
will be a long travel day tomorrow.

Dinner at Absinthe

2009-08-14T19:02:00.000-07:00

Amanda's new vintage coat made just for her

2009-08-14T18:47:00.000-07:00

Our tea guru

2009-08-14T18:46:00.000-07:00

Chinese tea tasting

2009-08-14T18:45:00.000-07:00

San Fran Gogo

2009-08-14T18:40:00.000-07:00

Sorry but this is all your getting today. We've been going nonstop all
day and it ain't over yet.
Quick update: alcatraz, coit tower, telegraph hill, north beach
shopping (Amanda bought a cool one of a kind vintage coat), Chinatown
and an awesome tea tasting experience, and now we are shoe shopping in
Hayes valley and may hit the mission tonight.
Having non stop fun. Who knows what tomorrow will bring.

Sent from my iPhone

I brought my heart to San Francisco

2009-08-13T22:23:00.000-07:00

Just a quick update as we are very tired and I have a small buzz from a few beers at our Sushi dinner tonight. Made it to San Francisco after a wonderful morning in Napa. We did a tour of Rudd Vineyards and it may have been the highlight of the trip. We were lucky enough to have a private tour given to us by Victoria whose enthusiasm and love for vines and vitaculture was palpable. The Rudd estate was quite beautiful and the wines were outstanding. We bought just a few wines as the prices were steep to say the least. It will be a nice surprise however when they arrive in mid-September.

Left Napa and took a nice ride down to San Francisco. Got out before we went over the bridge and walked over the Golden Gate. I must be honest and say it was a bit scary. Lots of wind and traffic noise and it's a longgggg way down. We may go back when it is foggy as we have been told that is a whole 'nother experience. Got to the hotel and immediately took a trolly to the Fisherman's Wharf. Not much to see that we haven't already seen down there but the International Spy Shop was very neat. Waited a long time for the trolly back, got some sushi and hitting the hay early so we can get on the 1st boat to Alcatraz.

Hope to post more pics tomorrow.

Founders Tree

2009-08-12T21:37:00.000-07:00

Redwoods to Napa

2009-08-12T20:03:00.000-07:00

Relaxing in Napa after another beautiful travel day. Spent last night with Paul Garvin in Albion and the fog finally broke on the coast this morning giving us spectacular views down the PCH.

Yesterday we had an amazing time in the Redwoods in Humbolt State Park. The pictures below do no justice to the power and size of these trees. Even calling them trees does not seem right. It would be like calling a whale a fish. Walking through the groves you simply feel small, yet at the same time you feel very connected with the nature around you.

We prepared ourselves for Great Smoky Mtn. Park type crowds on the Avenue of the Giants but were pleasantly surprised to encounter maybe 20 people tops our entire time in the park. Our last hike in the Grieg-French-Bell Grove we got a little lost and found these great picnic benches way back in the woods. We were totally alone out there and the silence was deafening.

Left the park and went up to Eureka for lunch. Eureka was weird. We learned later we should have gone to Arcata but it was an experience none the less. It seems like everyone in Northern Cali is stoned. Lots of crazies and the barista at the place where we got coffee didn't even know where she was.

The beginning of the PCH up over to the coast was one of the best motorcycle roads I have ever seen. Must come back and do it on a bike. The coast was very foggy on our way to Paul's. We loved where Paul lives and Kim and Abel are wonderful. Abel is adorable and really took to Amanda. Wish we could have spent more time as it was great catching up. Down the PCH this morning and went back over the mountains on the Skaggs-Springs road from Stewart's Point to Gyserville. Another amazing motorcycle road and scary how remote it is.

Got to Napa and found a great room. Went to Andretti, Trefethen and Black Stallion Vineyards. We have a tour of Rudd Vineyards tomorrow and then off to San Fran for the weekend. Enjoy the pictures.

Moon River in Napa

2009-08-12T18:06:00.000-07:00

Just a few pics

2009-08-10T22:12:00.000-07:00

A slight change of plans

2009-08-10T22:05:00.000-07:00

Left Monterey this morning and got back on the PCH towards San Fran. Our plan was to go up to Point Reys Natl. Seashore and hike around there but the fog along the coast just wouldn't let up. After passing Pacifica and the coolest Taco Bell in the world we decided to head inland and jet up to the Redwoods. All signs say this was a great decision because crossing the Golden Gate Bridge we couldn't even see it due to fog. The inland drive on the 101 was beautiful with all the vineyards and the spectacular mountains. The north of Cali is very different than what we have seen so far. Although it is still "golden" in many places, we are now in dense green forests and have passed lots of BIG trees.

We are now in Garberville, CA in Humbolt County right on the edge of the Avenue of the Giants. Heading into the Redwoods tomorrow and then back down the coast to Paul Garvin's house in Albion. We are very excited. Garberville is a very funky, very small town but one of the nicest stops so far as it is very unpopulated and we met some nice bikers who gave us a few ideas for the trip back to San Fran.

Don't know if we will have internet at Paul's so this might be our last post till San Fran. Not so sure of our plans but it looks like we will get a full day in Napa/Sonoma which we are psyched about after seeing all the beautiful vineyards today. More to come...

P.S. - No pictures today. Sorry. The internet here is just too slow. We'll post a bunch soon.

Also, Dad's camera is the greatest thing ever. I feel like a pro with it. It just takes brilliant shots. Also the iPhone needs a special shrine in our house. The web access and maps saved us many a hassle today.

Change of plans...

2009-08-10T16:38:00.000-07:00

Greetings from Monterey

2009-08-09T22:13:00.000-07:00

Well we left those LA Freeways behind us and moved north up the California coast. Another fantastic day today. It began with an early morning surf session with Ben and Shanny at Venice Beach. I had one good ride where I got up on my knees and my feet for a quick second but the real excitement came when I got totally crushed by a big wave that sent me deep and tumbling underwater. It scared me a lot and I didn't go back in after that.

Brendan and Jessell whipped up a stellar breakfast and we got on the road. Crazy, crazy sunday traffic all the way to San Luis Obisbo. Stop and go, stop and go. I'm glad we have left LA behind however Brendan and Jeselle went far and above being just our hosts. They showed us all around the city, made food, were fun to be with and couldn't have been more accommodating. We thank them from the bottom of our hearts for all their generosity.

Past San Luis Obisbo we got on the PCH (Pacific Coast Highway) and headed north. Unfortunately there was lots of fog so the views were limited but when we broke out of the fog is became quite dramatic. The more north we got the more it cleared and by the time we got to Big Sur the sun was setting. Got in to Monterey just after sunset and went downtown for a bite at a small restaurant called Rosine's.

I apologize for not posting more. It takes time to go thru the video and pictures and we really haven't stopped moving since we got here. I will add some pictures when I can. You should be able to click on the pictures to blow them up.

Thinking about Santa Cruz and Point Reyes for tomorrow.

Santa Monica Pier

2009-08-09T09:53:00.000-07:00

LA breakfast

2009-08-09T09:42:00.001-07:00

Pancake breakfast and fresh baked sourdough bread, before leaving LA.

Post session

2009-08-09T09:41:00.001-07:00

Venice Beach, 8:15am, 8/9/09

What exciting things await???

2009-08-08T07:33:00.000-07:00

Good morning from Los Angeles. Things are shaping up to be a very exciting day for us. This morning we are going to meet Peter Hilen and his family at the LA Farmers Market. That sounds normal enough except for the fact that Peter's family started the Farmers Market and I think owns it now. It should be an interesting experience for sure.

Then Brendan is taking us on the "super-secret" Universal Studio tour, hopefully on a golf cart, and then a little shopping on Rodeo Drive and Beverly Hills.

Hope you have been enjoying the pictures and video.

1st Day in LA

2009-08-07T20:21:00.001-07:00

Delirium set in at the end of this video

Surf Day @ El Porto

2009-08-07T18:12:00.001-07:00

Surfing with Griz Alumni!!! Manhattan Beach. LA

Perfect LA Day

2009-08-07T17:28:00.001-07:00

A few pictures from the day.

No Internet

2009-08-07T17:16:00.000-07:00

Sorry but I have been having trouble getting on the Internet at
Brenden's. Just want to give update. Just an unbelievable day today.
Great weather, morning surf, and the afternoon at Venice Beach. Muscle
Beach. Lots of craziness. Now we are just kind of winding down.
Tomorrowl looks to be another exciting day. I'll post video and
pictures when i can.

Sent from my iPhone

Take Me Out To The Ballgame

2009-08-06T22:48:00.001-07:00

7th Inning Stretch

Dodgers vs Braves

2009-08-06T20:48:00.000-07:00

Ramirez up to bat

2009-08-06T20:45:00.000-07:00